Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 509 Threads: 129
Reputation:
2
Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
1936 Ruby with original engine bored out to +60 thou. with LC head.
All wiring replaced and heavy gauge battery connections to starter and earth.
All ignition components replaced
Here’s the issue when standing for more than one day takes for ever to start BUT will eventually start and run fine
Once it’s started initially for the next day or two starts straight away.
Not really a problem because even when standing the previous two weeks same situation
Possibly the car just misses me and is making a protest at not being used
You never know
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 3,063 Threads: 577
Reputation:
24
Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
Have you taken an earth lead from the starter battery directly to a bolt on the gearbox or engine? If your earth is just to the body, the voltage drop can be significant.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,162 Threads: 112
Reputation:
22
Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi
Is fuel leaking very slowly out of the float bowl? It takes quite a while for the pump to fill the bowl.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 899 Threads: 50
Reputation:
4
Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
If my car has been standing for more than a day or so, I make sure I use the priming lever to manually fill the float bowl with petrol before operating the starter. Usually results in an instant start.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,689 Threads: 24
Reputation:
15
Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Yep, if you’ve left it more than a week, prime the pump every time for an instant start.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 509 Threads: 129
Reputation:
2
Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
Thanks for the suggestions
Sorry I forgot to mention I prime the carb every time.
Also the Earth lead goes direct to the starter motor then back to the chassis.
I may try an additional lead from battery to chassis
Then disconnect the starter to earth lead , if you follow me
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 709 Threads: 34
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
Clean your points in the distributer / check points gap. (points burn up quickly if the condenser is below par).
Also, is there too much slop on the distributer shaft making the points gap inaccurate.
Possible crack in the distributer cap ? (did you replace with a new one?).
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,060 Threads: 55
Reputation:
5
Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
I find that both my '34 Ruby and my '55 Austin Cambridge take a bit of cranking over before they start, when they've not been used for a week. A little squirt of petrol into the air intake of the carb and they start instantly.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 987 Threads: 120
Reputation:
3
Location: Melton Mowbray.
My '28 Chummy can also be calcitrant in starting and has been all the years I've had it. Flooding the carb helps but I need to wind it over for around 10-15 secs. The 6v battery is good but magnetos are notorious for their inefficiency at low revs. Occasionally I've resorted to banging 12 volts thro' the system, resulting in instant start up!
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,162 Threads: 112
Reputation:
22
Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi
Have you tried putting a voltmeter across the battery? As has been mentioned the volt drop when the starter is in operation can mean that the ignition struggles with a spark. On a weak battery the problem is worse. I’ve found that if my RK doesn’t start quickly with the starter a hand crank will work. It allows all the available power to the ignition.
Cheers
Howard
