Joined: Aug 2022 Posts: 94 Threads: 18
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1
Location: Switzerland
Car type: 29 RF/29 B/29 AE/32 EA rep./34 AVH
Since I will be driving my newly acquired van over hilly routes and also in city traffic on friday afternoons, I am thinking about improving the brakes. Does anyone have experience with the cast iron Girling brake drums? Is such a conversion recommended or should you rather keep your hands off it?
If you install them, what other components need to be replaced? And is there anything special to consider during installation?
Thank you very much in advance.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 968 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
The backplate assemblies are different as well as the drums. When Girling brakes were fitted in production heavier front axle torque arms were used. I suggest a careful look at the differences as shown in the parts lists which you can find in the archive.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,663 Threads: 94
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15
Location: Monmouthshire
Cast iron drums from one of our suppliers make a noticeable improvement. Changing to Girling is quite a challenge.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 793 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Practice using the gears to slow down.
Add leverage by using the handbrake along with the footbrake.
On long hills, click the handbrake on for short periods.
Everywhere, particularly in cities, leave much more distance between you and the car in front.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,472 Threads: 108
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
The first step is to check over all the existing brake components and linkages and make sure they are properly adjusted, lubricated, in good condition and that any excess of free play is corrected. If this is the case and performance is still inadequate, then is the time to consider the value of "upgrades".
Joined: Aug 2022 Posts: 94 Threads: 18
Reputation:
1
Location: Switzerland
Car type: 29 RF/29 B/29 AE/32 EA rep./34 AVH
Thank you for your answers. Of course I will first check how the brakes work. That is clear. But when I think how badly the Chummy brakes... And the van is even heavier. Well, we'll see. Maybe this topic will have finished by itself, otherwise I'll come back to it.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,688 Threads: 24
Reputation:
15
Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
In my own experience, I have found that new bushes and cams together with carful adjustment, standard Austin Seven brakes are perfectly adequate.
Driving style also plays a part, I tend to drive with very little use of the brakes and a lot of forward planning.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,579 Threads: 21
Reputation:
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
I would echo both what Ivor and Steve have said. I was taught to drive any car as if the brakes were disconnected and to use them only to bring the vehicle to a stand (this was advice from a roll-Royce trained chauffeur).
I accept that, in Switzerland, there are some pretty difficult inclines to manage. North Wales is not far behind at times! The engine is the best brake on the car and the standard advice used to be to descend a hill in the same gear with which one would climb it, using the brakes just to steady the car if and as required. using such a technique also ensures one doesn't end up at the bottom with no brakes because they have overheated and faded to nothing.
It is also useful to remember that the Austin 7's cable operated brakes rely very much on the geometry of the suspension and steering being in good order. Given the small movement of the brake components between brakes off and brakes on, even a little movement in a worn joint can translate into worrying brake problems.
