Rear hub woes...

[GrahamW]

Hi all

I am after a bit of sagely advice.
I need to remove my rear hubs to replace the brake spindles and oil light bearings.
The drive shaft nut came off with very little effort, but the treads on the hub are stripped and not savable .
I tried my hub puller on it, but it wouldn't bite the remains of the threads.
Any advice before i resort to heat and extreme violence !

[Colin Wilks]

I haven't done this so cannot recommend it, but it seems logical:
https://www.ba7c.org/technicalArticles/hubsRear.html

[John Mason]

Graham, will the remaining threads clean up with a thread file ? I think you have made the mistake I did first time I tried to remove my rear hubs. Once the hub is on well and the centre bolt has been tightened but the hub will still be tight on the shaft hit the centre bolt with a heavy hammer and the shock will release the hub from the taper complete with hub puller. If the threads as shot the hub puller can be held in place with some tack welds which can be ground off once the hum is off.

John Mason.

[David Stepney]

I have one rear hub that has a dodgy pull thread but is otherwise a good ft on the end of the axleshaft. If I ever have to remove it, I use a sledge hammer in the manner described in the article. Just use the weight of the hammer to hit the end of the shaft. Never failed yet. Mind you, I am too scared to hit the naked end of the shaft. I put the nut on and screw it flush with the end of the shaft first. I do possess a die the correct thread to clean up the thread on the hub, but mine is too badly damaged to clean up effectively. One of these days I shall get around to replacing it if I can get one with a good taper. In the meantime, I take the view that’s good fit on the end of the shaft is more important.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I have had some success, in the past, by welding a puller to the outer hub.

[Ivor Hawkins]

I have recently had the same problem and after careful use of a thread file and a little time machining the hub puller on the lathe to achieve more “bite” on the remaining threads, a judicious tap on the puller bolt head sorted the problem.

[David Witton]

Tracy Tools used to sell a hub die. Cant remember the thread form or if they still do but worth it's weight in gold in any case.

[Steve Jones]

David Cochrane lists them - BT953d. Not something you use very often but when you need to, you're very glad that you've got one. Mine's saved a number of hubs that were nearly at the point of no return.

Steve

[GrahamW]

Hi all

Thanks for all the suggestions.
I have had several tries at breaking the taper, including the sledge hammer suggestion, but to no avail.
i managed to get my puller to bite, but again it failed.
i have also tried a couple of smart smacks with a hammer and anvil to the sides of the hub stub, but it wont budge !
Tomorrow i will have a go at adding a little heat to the exercise and see if it has any effect. Its almost like it has been chemically bonded to the drive shaft.

[Ian Williams]

As a last resort, loosen the half shaft nut, place a good solid drift, supported on an axle stand or similar, resting against the end half shaft end. Then hit it hard with a sledge hammer, brutal but almost never fails to remove a stubborn or damaged hub. Once you have it off find a better replacement or buy a new one from David Cochrane.

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If the key fails and the hub spins on the shaft they can sometimes be extremely difficult to remove because of the ridges thrown up. The sledge hammer trick works but you need one good solid straight blow, not half hearted taps!