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Toe alignment on my 32 RP
#1
Purchased car about this time last year. Undriveable initially with no brakes, clutch would not release, wiring a mess, doors falling off the hinges, crown wheel shot and both seats moved rearward 10 inches. All problems repaired. One remaining job was the steering. Car would jump all around the road when driving. My local alignment shop could not do the job as wheel track was to narrow for his machine. Ended up setting the alignment with a pair of toe plates that I purchased. Discovered that toe-in was 13/16 inch. Adjusted toe to zero and car goes down the road in a much better manner
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#2
I like you set up to measure toe in! What really is important on Sevens is the KPI (king pin inclination) which can we adjusted by freeing off the bolts which go through the axle into the radius arms and twisting the radius arms then once set, tightening up the bolts.

You will find it transforms the handling and the car has less inclination (ahem!) to jump over the hedge on a bumpy road.
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#3
Unfortunately that puts a twist on the spring and loads the spring bushes.  Long since been an action advised to avoid.  I think you are thinking of castor angle.
A thin wedge between chassis nose and spring and possible re-location of radius arms rear ball joint if required is way to go for different CASTOR angle.
Believe king pin angle is that set by angle of king pin axle end to rest of axle.

Dennis
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#4
The easiest way to measure, check and adjust wheel alignment is by using a sliding plate made by GUNSON, called a Trakrite. I'm sure you can get one over the water through that famous auction site.

By the way, I hate to disappoint you but the car in the photo isn't an RP. It's an RN. The scuttle swaging and the door ledges are the clues.

This is the RP scuttle moulding:

[Image: 20201029-131809.jpg]
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#5
Sorry Dennis you are correct it is the castor angle I’m talking about not KPI, I’ve been setting mine as described, mainly because over the years, the action of the brakes has caused the axle to rotate, which in turn puts stress on the springs and bushes...generally setting up correctly has returned the axle and castor to factory settings, I agree cranking the radius arms over what they should be isn’t a great idea!
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#6
In checking the Austin 7 Identification of models on the internet, The RNs were cowl mounted gas tanks with a 3 speed transmission.  I have a crash box 4 speed and rear tank. My title number is B5 7602 while the cowl plate is B6 4834. Fouled up numbers  but I'll let my heirs sort that problem out after I die.  Currently almost 80 years of age.
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#7
Some of the very late 1932 RNs had the rear tank and the 4 speed crash gearbox, as well as having the rear vertical body seams removed. The BODY/TYPE number (not the CAR number you have quoted) should be stamped on the transmission tunnel just rearwards of the gearbox, with the Model designation (eg RP) and the serial number of the model run (eg 10454). What is more important is the chassis number. The cross over from RN to RP came at chassis n° 162566. The Chassis number should be on the bulkhead next to the car number, but also on the left hand chassis rail, between the back engine mount and the point where the bulkhead meets the chassis.

For more information click on this link, which will download a word document with all the changes that took place that year:

https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/for...?aid=11452
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#8
Chassis number is 161434. Best I can figure out the tunnel number is 1?4001. First digit is hard to read. No seams at the transition between the rear quarter and the back panel . It appears a lot gets fouled up when cars are imported into the USA and then go thru multiple owners and diifferent states
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#9
Probably so. Your best identifier is the chassis number given that there are two car numbers given. The B6 serial number is probably the correct one. So what you have is a late 1932 RN saloon, with a construction date of around October 1932.
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#10
Thanks for the information. From hereon I will refer to the car as an "RN".
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