Seeking a dynamator

[Speedex750]

Hi all,

My 2 brush C35 with RB106 regulator won't reliably generate 12v without constant attention. The dynamo jumps out of the car itself when I whistle, it has been in and out so often. As a consequence, I've got used to getting round my longer journeys (eg the Beamish run, ~170 miles) on just what is stored in the battery with the red light staring unblinkingly at me. I know the battery is getting low when the petrol gauge starts sinking faster than it should do.

I know Dynamators got a bit of a pasting by some but by not having any charging at all, I feel knowing the weaknesses, I can make one work and be better off. I don't want to reopen the discussion on them with all the woes and recriminations or the other discussion about sticking to standard, I'm firmly wedded to 12 volts negative earth - I just want to try this modern solution myself.

Anyone got a 12v negative earth dynamator that is surplus to requirements? I've put an advert up in the 'Wants' section.


Thank you, Dave

[Hedd_Jones]

I fitted one as I'd had an issue with sticky points in the cut out which had rendered both the cut out and the dynamo U/S and needing significant money spending to sort.

I changed the gears as per the advice. And fitted, it fit well, the wiring diagramme supplied by the third party supplier (who is very active on here) was excellent - happy days.

Then it stopped charging - pretty soon. Another was supplied - basically under warranty. Did the same with that. That was some years ago now.

However I'm pretty confident it gave up a fortnight ago on our way back from Foxfield. Its not charging at all, so I need to investigate. Recently it had been behaving like a dynamo in that it never seemed to cut out, or rather the charge current didn't drop and after 30odd miles it should really be zero unless my battery is tatered - and it isnt because it still starts the car fine. Also it always seemed to want quite high revs to kick in which wasn't ideal.

I've done a bit of start stop with it since and its not charged once, though the starter did work. So still under investigation.

So whilst it worked and did the job, in my use they have proven to be less than durable. My plan is to investigate, and if U/S send it to my tame electrical wizz to sort. Knowing his line of work, and hoping that it is the control side of things that has give up, he has suggested that it may simply be a matter of replacing the cheap Chinese control components with those of better quality.

Here is living in hope!

[Nigel Ricardo]

I was speaking to Vince Leek yesterday he has repaired 2 and had just fitted one to his car to see what they are like as he has had it on the shelf for a couple of years.

[Andy Bennett]

Did I read somewhere that Accuspark had stopped manufacturing the Austin 7 dynamator?

[Duncan Grimmond]

I may have mentioned this before but the chap who rebuilt my dynamo used Fiat 500 parts to give me a 12v output and I used a standard regulator with that. I gather he had to turn the body of the Seven dynamo to a slightly larger internal diameter to accommodate...no doubt he had to fanny about with bearings as well but I never had a flat battery (Exide small format as per BMW R80).

[Ivor Hawkins]

Dave, turning things on its head a bit, with the advent of solid, reliable LEDs may I be so bold as to suggest you don’t need 12 volts? I’ve been driving 6 volt Austins for 50 years now without and issue...including specials...just a thought, as it puts less strain on the system.

And her endeth the lesson from Ivor the Luddite!

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Did I read somewhere that Accuspark had stopped manufacturing the Austin 7 dynamator?

They have not made them for some time.

[Tony Griffiths]

If you have LED bulbs, a standard 6-volt system will be fine. Our Ruby has an entirely original 6-volt system and LED headlamp and front side lamp bulbs. The headlights are perfectly adequate for night motoring, vastly better than the originals with a good beam pattern and the ammeter always shows a positive charge. So many different 6-volt LED bulbs are available - in fact, some will run on 6 or 12 volts - that getting a pair for your car should be easy. The Ruby rear lights are new replica originals, but when I tried LED stop and tail bulbs, they just did not work. These Chinese-made light units, though they certainly look the part, are not even up to 'King of Darkness' specification and to get a decent contact I had to solder the standard bulbs in place. With LEDs at the rear, the charge at night would of course be even better.
Here are some suggestions - this "bullseye" one works without a reflector needing to be other than a holding unit: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/product...nd-pattern
Another recommended company that stands by its warranty - and is recommended by many others is: Classic Regulator and Dynamo Conversions http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

[Barry Townsend]

My Dynamator story is identical to yours - after three units I gave up and had the original dynamo rebuilt by Dynamo & Regulator conversions in Lincoln, problem solved!

[Dave Mann]

I'm surprised that you get it to work at all with a RB 106 regulator, I tried one and gave up after a couple of months and used it as a 3 brush 12 volt dynamo for about 10 years.