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I am about to replace the entire rear axle assembly with a used one. Is there going to be a problem getting the torque tube universal assembly over the crossmember that it is attached to? Clearances look to be rather tight
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
Once detached from the chassis, the mounting can be turned through 90° to pass it over the cross-member.
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What Mike said... I did this myself a few weeks ago. Place a trolley jack under the diff so you can support / lower / wheel it away as desired, otherwise you may struggle with the weight.
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It is a long time since I did this and with just one screw jack but I recall it being a bit of a battle to get the shackle lugs to fit onto the spring. Is it easier with some weight on the springs so the spacing is more "normal"?
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Bob, I found insertion of the spring pins easier if the leaf spring mounting bolts are left loose so there is a little latitude for 'tweaking' their alignment.
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06-11-2021, 08:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-11-2021, 08:46 PM by Stumpi.)
Lift car as high as possible with trolley Jack under diff.
Place two decent axle stands under rear cross member just inboard of springs.
Lower trolley Jack so axle is held in the air by springs.
Then raise slightly too remove spring pins.Then the Axle.
I always check fit of pin in spring bushes and replace if necessary.
I find a 30degree taper on end of pin helps with re assembly.
If you have spring off the car it is worth a trial assembly before fitting to car
When you place axle back in car a trolley Jack is useful in adjusting height to get pins in.connect front end loosely until all bolts and pins are in.
Some springs are sloppy in axle location sideways I shim with a washer
Just been checking around car today and found most axle bolts not quite tight must have been that trial I did the other week.
Andy
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
06-11-2021, 09:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-11-2021, 09:19 PM by Alan.)
What you do is find an old king pin. (Other half inch bar is available). Grind a taper about half the length that reduces the diameter down to 3/8 or so over half the length. If inserted from the inner side it will help align the axle with the spring bush. Then insert the pin and push it in, maybe with a hammer and brass drift until the pin is about 1/8 away from the spring bush. Take a deep breath and whack the spring pin with the hammer and drift. It will push the king pin out and the spring pin will be in position. Simples.
Alan Fairless
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Esp on the high chassis cars the spring spacing must vary considerably between full rebound (as when trying to refit axle) and full bump when near horizontal.It is surpring does not lead to trouble with the u bolts etc. Any correction for end movement ideally should cater for the normal ride positon.
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Thanks to those have commented on replacing my rear axle assembly. My fears are way less now in knowing removal is possible at the rear crossmenber without to much of a problem. Thanks again. Arnie
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Before refitting a chance to check that the ball joint can be adjusted for free movement without huge play. A convenient time to doctor if possible. If adjusted before assembly less risk of heavy binding. Presumaby new axle has been checked for undamaged tight tapers etc