RP Door Adjustment

[Smiley]

Has anyone out there had experience, and could offer advice on door adjustment on the 1932 RP Box.
Both doors on my RP stick out at the bottom by about 7 M/M.  The top of the doors are fine. Any advice 
would be appreciated.  Thanks.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

A stainless steel strap beneath the trim panel (with the correctly orientated twist in it) pinned from front top corner to bottom rear corner will pull the door in. I have also used a thin stainless steel rope rope and rigging adjuster to do the same job.

[Martin Prior]

       
The RP door is a horrible lash-up, the result of trying to make the bottom outer corner about 1" thinner than on the previous, much stronger RN design.  It relies for any stiffness on a thin ply panel and a flat steel strip which slots into the bottom fold of the doorskin.

We see lots of RP doors. two-thirds of which have been incorrectly repaired at some time and are too thick to close properly. 

Throwing out at the bottom rear corner may be due to the above, or other bad door frame repairs.  It may also be due to inaccurate repairs to the bottom of the B-post.  A relatively simple test is to make a top-to-bottom template of the profile of the A-post.  The front and back profiles of the door and also that of the B-post should all match this; if they don't then more investigation will be needed.

As I said, we deal with lots of these, so if you need any further guidance, please let me know.  We can also (sorry, commercial plug coming up) supply any replacement woodwork that may be needed and can fit it for you if necessary.

[Bob Culver]

RP owners feast your eyes on Martin’s handiwork. Chances are you will never see any another as per original.

For many cars the wood and much of the metal vanished decades ago and the replacement patchwork is anyones guess. The original construction is certainly a curious puzzle; I wondered what had prompted such an  arrangement. Whilst not attempting anything approaching Martins work, just to acheive something functional  I spent ages pondering the timber scraps on my car. To set and hold twist was a major challenge. I wish I had thought of Ruairidh’s  novel device. 

The life of the doors of any RP kept outside was strictly limited. The quality of construction did not match the gearbox and most other uprated mechanical parts.

PS How many times can the tabs be rebent?

[Derek Sheldon]

As ever nice job Martin

[Martin Prior]

Many thanks for the kind comments, gents!

[Smiley]

A stainless steel strap beneath the trim panel (with the correctly orientated twist in it) pinned from front top corner to bottom rear corner will pull the door in. I have also used a thin stainless steel rope rope and rigging adjuster to do the same job.

Hi Ruairidh, any idea what width & thickness the stainless strap was that was used and was it left in position to hold the door or was it removed ??
Thanks
Smiley.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

The last one was about 1/2” wide by about 1/8” thick and yes, do leave it in place.

[Reckless Rat]

In a similar vein, is there a reasonably easy method for rectifing the typical "brewer's droop" of the RP saloon doors?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/austin7nut/4289738185/

[Martin Prior]

In a similar vein, is there a reasonably easy method for rectifing the typical "brewer's droop" of the RP saloon doors?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/austin7nut/4289738185/

A lovely car!

The usual problem is that the whole scuttle has dropped relative to the B-post, probably because the mounting points to the front cross-member outriggers have rotted out.  Plating and packing should cure this.