Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 49 Threads: 10
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I need to remove the engine on my RP box;I would like to remove it with the gearbox attached as is my usual practice so that blind spline etc more easily sorted. A good friend and professional mechanic.now sadly departed.taught me that what at first sight seems to be unnecessary dismantling will actually often simplify things considerably.With this in mind it looks to me as if after disconnections and removal of accessories,the easiest route would be to remove the front of the car[rad etc] and come out forwards. I should add that at 78 and after 2 spinal ops awkward lifting and bending are best avoided. What does this knowledgeable forum think?
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Excellent list of instructions, Bruce. The only deviation I made the last time my RPs engine came out was the substitution on the fifth from last instruction, which, in my case would have read: “Procure a 15 stone grandson and stand well back whilst he takes firm hold of the engine and lifts the whole unit out and onto the bench.”
I was somewhat envious; I used to be able to do that too.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 294 Threads: 11
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I used to work in a garage run by an absurdly muscular guy. He could do that with mini engines!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Like most car manuals, some of the operations are somewhat more complicated. For the RP, the "Remove engine mounting bolts" is probably the easiest said than done. I have found that removing the starter motor makes access to the rear offside one a bit easier. My engine bolts have been modified to facilitate easier removal:
The front ones, which screw into the captive threads in the chassis have the top nuts locked on, so they can be removed in one piece. I don't tighten them down hard.
The rear ones have been changed. I use a large (metric, sorry) bolt with a D shaped washer welded on at the head, to prevent it rotating in the chassis channel. The bolt is pushed in from underneath and the rubber engine mount (if you have one) holds it in place while I use a long socket and universal joint to undo/tighten. The nuts are nyloc.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,391 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
30-06-2021, 03:59 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-06-2021, 04:51 PM by Chris KC.)
I'd say Reckless has more or less covered it.
My tuppence worth - I use a length of nylon rope and a block and tackle suspended from the rafters, it takes most of the lifting out of the job. Still easier with an assistant.
Even so, if the engine is getting stripped anyway I'd do as much as poss before trying to lift it out - head and manifolds, dynamo & starter add a lot to the weight. Block even - depends on your plans.
If you have a deep sump you'll want that off too.
The crankcase tends to jam on the chassis rails and needs rotating nose up as it comes forward.
It's a heck of a lot easier draining oil before you start than after removal!
As for lifting out engine and gearbox together, it makes no odds - it's putting them back that you might struggle with the splines.
I put a 'low frame' engine into mine and had to slacken off the throttle cross shaft while the clutch pedal and flywheel were persuaded under it.
p.s. Are you a member of a local club Richard? I am often surprised by how kind and helpful other enthusiasts can be, and with another pair of hands you'd rattle through it in no time. However you look at it some crawling underneath and humping things about is called for.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
I have little or no problem with the blind spline on re assembly. Put the engine in and line up with the gearbox. From underneath put a Jack under the bell housing and Jack up until the gear box is at the same angle as the engine ( Both on the same plane) gently turn the engine with the the handle at the same time gently rocking the engine. When the blind spline lines up you will feel the engine engage and a difference in the Handle turning.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 725 Threads: 38
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Location: Herefordshire
Reckless has covered it very nicely. The one thing to watch out for is that the sump is wider around the drain plug and it's essential that this bit is lifted clear of the lower chassis flange before the engine slides forward. If it isn't it'll hook itself firmly under the chassis and the whole lot will have to go backwards again.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,746 Threads: 42
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Location: Malvern, Victoria, Australia
With earlier engines:
· Remove gear lever. Stuff gearbox top cover with paper towel.
would read:
· Remove gearbox top with lever. Stuff gearbox top with paper towel.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,977 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
Don't forget to wear the obligatory flannels, waistcoat, white shirt (with sleeves rolled up) and tie. A pipe between gritted teeth adds to the dashing cover photo!
