1938 Ruby Gearbox problem

[andrew767767]

Hi I have a '38 Ruby with the 4 speed box.  The problem that has just developed is 2nd gear.  With the car on tick over and stationary. Depressing the clutch trying to get it into 2nd just ends up with loud crunching noise. If I then try 3rd and 4th it goes in without any noises.  On the road trying to change down to 2nd seem impossible even trying ddc. I am not sure if its the syncro or the clutch or bother that may be the problem any advice would help thanks

[Robert Leigh]

If it selects 3 & 4 without problems it seems to me that the fault lies in the 1st and second selector system. Has the guide bar got out of position? You may see something significant by removing the top of the gearbox. I have never come across it has a selector broken? My first move would be to rmove the gearbox top and check whether the 1/2 sector moves normally. A drift and mallet will normally move the selector when you don't have the lever in place. Stating the obvious I assume that it is the correct 2SYN box. It would be interesting to hear what you find.

[andrew767767]

Thank you Robert will make a start on your advice tomorrow will let you know.

[andrew767767]

Hi Robert have attached a picture of the top of the Box.  I noticed that there is considerable wear on the raised bits.  Seems that 2nd selector gear has the most wear or is it supposed to be like that? Think its the correct box for the Ruby many thanks

Can't seem to attach the picture have a link here

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPC...ZDUFpBM3VR

[Robert Leigh]

The picture appears to show a break with two bits of the selector which should all be one piece. I think you probably need to remove the selector to check properly. For this it is easier to remove the gearbox, which should come out easily through the floor on your car. It can be difficult to remove selectors without dropping the balls and springs inside the gearbox, but a suitable magnetic probe will usually find them without much difficuty. Incidentally it will have 2SYN stamped on the rear edge of the lid if it is the correct gearbox. People often hesitate to dismantle any part of a gearbox, but the selector mechanism is relatively easy to dismantle and to 'mantle' again.

[andrew767767]

Hi Robert thanks again for your advice
The model number on the cover is SYN5218 there is no 2 in front of the SYN on my one
My goodness I see the cracks!
Will make a start on removing the box but wonder if the selector with the cracks are able to purchase? Checked A7 spares but can't see the part listed.
Hopefully that is the cause that relevant to 2nd gear cheers!

[Robert Leigh]

There are probaly people around who have dismantled gearboxes for parts and there is a good chance that someone will have the selector fork which I think you will need. Buying new is probaly an impossible dream, but finding another gearbox where someone has taken the lid for their version of a remote control may be a possiblity. As far as I could see you do not need the lid; I may even have one incomplete myself, but get to the stage where you can see exactly what you need and add another comment on here.

[andrew767767]

Hi Robert will do
Just had another look seems the cracks are oil streams? or reflections from the flash photo
Just concerned that as my box does not have the "2" in front of the syn does that mean there is no synchro on 2nd? trying to peer down into the box as I understand its posible to check the 2nd gear synchro brass sleeve but can't locate it so will try again when the box is out cheers!

[Bob Culver]

Presumably it has synchro 2nd or you would have always had to double declutch.
It is common for the bronze synchro cones to come loose and I have seen them with all the interference splines stripped off. Dunno symptoms but the cone should be visble and prodded with a screwdriver should not move separately from the 1 st gear hub.
Correction; the cone is of course attached to 2nd gear itself ; the point is it should not be wandering about independant of the part it is supposed to be integral with.

Really need more info to guess. Does it actually go into 2nd under any circumstances, including engine stopped. I presume you mean it goes into 3 and 4, not that after 3 and 4 it goes into 2nd?

If is trying to select two gears at one will graunch. and once engaged geabox will be locked solid!

If you have the lid off beware no spring washers etc fall in.

Must be someone out there with extensive experience who can guess.

[andrew767767]

Well Bob that's a good point tbh I have only done about 80miles in the Ruby having it only for 3 months.  I must say there was a little crunching going into 2nd always but now  no way to drop it into 2nd without severe grinding noise.  I will have a pock about it to see the cone.  Then guess when I have taken the box will see more whats going on I hope.  Many thanks for your advice cheers!