Does anyone have any experience in repairing the bridges in the water outlet from the block. They tend to be tapped oversize then corrosion just about eliminates them as a competent bridge.
I'd be interested in the thought of repairing them using nickel bronze rod then machining off and retapping the original size which I am assuming is 5/16" BSF
Jim Runciman
Perth Australia
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 683 Threads: 17
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6 Location: The far North East of England
Car type: 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van (in bits & incomplete!), 1936 Morris 8 Series I Tourer
The top outlet on my Ruby engine had failed when I bought the car and the previous owner had bent a piece of threaded rod into a hook shape and put it around the half of the bridge that was left. It was a poor bodge and always leaked. I made a piece from 1/8th steel plate drilled and tapped for the stud but having no welding gear made it a bit wider and used a longer stud so that it would fasten up under the original bridge. Works well. I was at first concerned that it would partially obstruct the water flow and lead to boiling but 15 years on no problems and no boiling.
Jr2766 if you have welding gear yours is a better solution.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
I always wonder about adding to the complication of "yet another joint" with the stainless repair thingie. What does one bond that with as well as the structural tapped screws (which also presumably go into the jacket?) and how long might that be expected to last without further attention?
Repair plate fitted 10yrs ago sealed with ThreeBond gasket sealant plate,screws,studs, all stainless steel still running no leaks. New water branch plain gasket and sealant (not cork) new product from John Barlow at the time, how long do want it to last.
,Terry.
so the zinc has to be in contact with the iron mass; can't just be in the system? I found an old military button inside the side outlet and wondered whether it had some other purpose. Didn't look possible that it had been used as a plug somewhere.
Yes Jon it must be in contact with what you want to be protected. I've fitted a few to the cylinder head water outlet with good results (no rust) and decided to try one on the block.
