Removing rear springs

[darcher121]

This is going to be fun!     

[dickie65]

I think Mr Black and Decker will be your friend on that one, Its a bit of a Bore though. !!

[darcher121]

I think you’re right. I’m going to grind off the shackle bolt and drill out the head of the through bolt.
Then the springs will just slip out........

[Howard Wright]

Hi

I think getting the u bolt off will be the least of your problems!

I’ve got negligible rust on my rear springs and yet they still won’t come out of the chassis!

Cheers

Howard

[Tony Betts]

i dont think id black and decker anything.

although rusty, the nuts usually come of these parts fine. 

if not split the nuts with a chissel.

you may find the U bolt and through bolt are re-useable.

the trick is the springs.

50% knowing what you are doing, and 50% bruit force and ignorance. 

20 mins work. but you might split the rivit that holds the leaves together.

needless to say ive done a few. tony

[darcher121]

Tony, the through bolt nuts came off easily and the thread is in good condition. I have given the bolt a few whacks (the nut, not the bare threads) but no movement. Any advice on this job gratefully received!
I’m not looking forward to doing it but they must come out as at least 1 leaf is broken.

[Reckless Rat]

An introduction to Mr Warm Spanner may well be needed...

[Tony Betts]

first step, the first tool every idiot buys. but the ideal tool for this job. a 4lb lump hammer. thats the short handle with square head.

turn the chassis upside-down. and put something solid underneath it, so the force of the hammer isnt lost. i use cut-offs from railway sleapers.

personally i remove the nut from  what im hitting, reason why. if you leave the nut on and the bolt doesnt move after a few blows, the thread is impacted sideways and ruined anyway. if your aim is true with enough force the through bolt will go first blow with no thread damage. if you have to hit it a couple of times, and damage the thread. it can usually be rescued with a file and a dye.

the U bolts are harder to get, as the chassis member is in the way. i use a brass drift?

as for the springs.

again with the chassis upside-down, ideally on the lawn to stop it moving.  use plenty of penetrating fluid, and hit the springs on all 4 sides. plenty of times. get the fluid good and mashed into the rust. you will feel you have freed everything up, but they will still need some heavy blows with the hammer.

i leave the bushes in the rear of the spring. and leave the 1/2 inch pin in them. a bit of tape to stop things moving wilst you are hitting it.

then hit the spring pin eye with the 4 lb hammer, so you are knocking the spring from the chassis.

the springs will come out. but as you are only hitting the bottom leaf spring,  alot of force is on the rivet that holds the springs together. so it may eventually break. but at least the springs will come out.

there you go, 30 years of working on austin 7 spares. getting them ready for sale.

tony

[Zetomagneto]

Spot on Tony, just did this myself a few days ago. Knocking the springs sideways definitely helps.I also put a 1/2” bar in the spring hole in the top of the chassis member, you can then knock it backwards and forwards an 1/8” of an inch, every little helps!. The one I just did has at some time been sandblasted with the springs in position so sand trapped between spring and chassis on all 4 sides.
The chassis in the picture looks pretty crusty.

[darcher121]

Thanks Tony!
I think the first tool I bought was a screwdriver set when I was 15years old.
The next was a lump hammer......