Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 66 Threads: 17
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Doing the other side of the RN rear hubs now.
The new (sealed) bearing is a nice push fit into the inner hub, but is reluctant to push onto the axle. I don't want to wind it on with the big flat nut, because everybody says the nut should just pinch up, and anyway it won't push on far enough to pick up adequate thread..
So what sort of fit should it be:
a) hand push
b) gentle tap
c) serious whack?
Assuming the answer is a) or b), should I ease the inner wall of the bearing with emery paper?
Thanks
John
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 935 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I find that your a) suggestion is the usual answer, which should be satisfactory because the nut holds it tightly in place. Have you campared the fit of the previous bearing with the new one? The other question I ask myself is why you have chosen a sealed bearing? I believe in the original type of bearing with a 'new type' lip seal in place of the original felt. I don't like the idea of easing the inner wall of the bearing with emery paper because there is the danger of emery dust finding its way onto the seal and causing damage in the long run.
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Location: Dunchurch, Warwickshire
Using a sealed bearing means that you don't have to put grease around the bearing so that it can eventually migrate onto the brake linings. All my cars now have them.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Those who have had myriads apart can best comment on the typical fit, but all have been off several times and likely acquired bumps and burrs, and others have been loose..
Bores have a tolerance range and modern extends very slightly smaller than previous and .0001 makes a difference. Is there any sign of repair; welding etc? It is important that it seats square, especially if a neat fit. If no scores burrs bruises, gently drive it on, greased. Whilst it is not vital (or even desirable?) that the rear bearing is a tight fit in housing, it does assist sealing. The steel felt retainer must be retained to ensure significant end movement does not develop
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 66 Threads: 17
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Thanks everybody for your replies.
Initially removing the inner hub did require the hub-puller, Robert, so perhaps it was too tight a fit. I assumed it was normal to have to use a puller for the second stage of the operation. I've just tried pushing on a number of old bearings and none of them could be described as a push-on fit. I've also tried the new bearing on a spare axle tube (correct term?) and that would have required more than hand pressure, too. Of course, this could just be an indication that I'm not very strong! I take your point about emery dust finding its way into the bearing.
No signs of repair, welding, scores or burrs, Bob. Perhaps the solution is to gently clean the spigot (correct term??) on the end of the axle tube with emery cloth until the bearing can be gently driven on. I've got a piece of tube of the correct diameter to do so.
As for why I opted for sealed bearings, Robert, it was simply that they seemed a good way of preventing grease from getting onto the brakes, as David says.
Again, thank you all for your help
John
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 935 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
In my experience grease gets onto the brakes if there is too much and if the bearing is badly worn allowing the seal to suffer. It is definitely more of a problem with the old type felt seals (non-seals?)
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
If diff oil finds its way to the hub in quantity it is unlikely even a sealed beariing will contain it. The consensus here was that the diffs need not and should not be fully filled.
Do the bearings ever "wear out"? (unless driven with a broken axle) Very genrously sized cf other cars.
