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Carden Block Joint
#1
Having bought my RN back in March, and more or less immediately removed the engine and gearbox to renovate the clutch, I am at last putting some (very enjoyable) mileage under the wheels.

However I am listening hard as I drive along, trying to make sense of the various sounds particularly from the rear.

I realise this is a very subjective question but are Carden Block joints very noisy!!?

Thank you in anticipation of your opinions, Brian.
Brian Rosevear
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#2
I would say NO, unless the pins and/or blocks are badly warn
Rick

In deepest Norfolk
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#3
The more play in the joint the worse the noise will be. If play is minimal make sure there is plenty of grease in the joint and a good cover to stop it coming out.
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#4
If you have a Carden at one end then you have a fabric joint at the other.

These can often hit the handbrake supporting bits, making noises.

Lubricated worn Cardens are not usually noisy, but you get vibration from the propshaft at various speeds, which is uncomfortable.
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#5
If you plan to use your car a lot and the joint is bad worn, as mention by "Slack Alice" vibration is the main problem.

One possible solution if you fancy it are the prop-shafts that David Cochrane does, a hardy spicer at each end - goodbye vibration.
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#6
If you are considering any serious road runs or long distance travelling, then the Hardy Spicer shaft as sold by David C is a worthwhile investment. It bolts straight on with no need to change the pinion flange and transforms the driving experience. No more constant greasing of that rattley old joint. I am a convert.
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#7
Thank you for your replies.

There seems to be little wear in the the joint and I can’t find any tell tails that that the prop shaft is touching anything. It is a Carden/Fabric joint set up all looking good.

So I think that what prompted my question has confirmed my fears that there are problems in the axle. 

Apart from the general noise there is occasionally a regular very firm mechanical vibration/ almost knocking which I think is on left-hand bends particularly. Also, going from first to reverse and vice versa there is a lot of play before drive is taken up.

This has all become apparent and worsened since my first, hard driven, 70 miles yesterday. This was expressly to expose problems which it seems to have done! At least my clutch repair is ok!

I’ll have a bit more of a poke around today but I think I am going to have to drop the axle. “What then” I ask myself since from what I read, work involving the crown wheel etc is for a professional.

Anyway thank you all again.....if anyone can make sense of what I have just written and has any further comments they would be welcome.

Brian.
Brian Rosevear
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#8
First job I'd do is to drain the axle and examine what comes out.
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#9
Before draining the axle check that the offside rear hub is tight on the halfshaft.
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#10
I have just bought one of David Cochrane’s prop shafts which come highly recommended.

However from a cursory inspection there would seem to be a problem with it clearing the hand break mechanism on my RN.

I have not actually offered it up yet so am not sure exactly how close it will be. I am booked into my friendly local garage in a weeks time for them to do the fitting on their ramp.

Is this a big problem please or one with a simple solution? As ever, any comments from anyone who has been here before would be very gratefully received.

Brian.
Brian Rosevear
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