Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 24 Threads: 10
Reputation:
0
Location: Denmark
Car type: Austin 7 Boattail 1931&1929
I would like to know what temperature are normal on top of head .Mine shows 120 C to 90C after a good drive at max speed up to 35 mph .10 miles to MOT .No indication of boiling .I used an infrared contactless termometer. New radiator .And filled with glycol to freeze temp. -15C .May be I need to drill out the waterways in block. If temp. are too high.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 694 Threads: 33
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
1932 Rn saloon, 4 blade fan, front tank, new modern core radiator rainwater (No Antifreeze):-
Fuel tank 53 deg C
Carburettor 50 deg C
inlet Manifold 72 deg C
Radiator top 77 deg C
Ambient Air 33 deg C (SW France)
if you are running at 120C, I would say you have a problem that needs to be seen to. its only the Glycol that is preventing a boil over.
Follow the thread "Running Temperature"
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
30-09-2019, 04:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-09-2019, 04:31 PM by Chris KC.)
Using glycol antifreeze will make the engine run hotter...
On the other hand, if it's not boiling then what's the problem exactly? The head is the hottest external part of the engine and by definition would be a bit hotter than the coolant.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,642 Threads: 93
Reputation:
15
Location: Monmouthshire
Chris
Are you sure about the highest temperature readings. Whilst admittedly never on a Seven, what I've seen is that exhaust manifolds are usually the places that are hotter.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 24 Threads: 10
Reputation:
0
Location: Denmark
Car type: Austin 7 Boattail 1931&1929
I know that use of glycol rise the boiling point , and the head is a bit hotter than coolant ,inlet to radiator top tank was about 80C . I have had the inlet & outlet manifold off .And poked with junior hack saw blade ,nearly closed at inlet . I know it may be a can of worms ,because 2 of head studs are oversize . Anyway it can be driven as is . Must wait till I have the engine out , for clutch adjustment, left side rear engine foot broken, will not have a good MOT , this Year I think ,rear mirror ,must be dipping front light, brake light needed, flashing indicators . Permission to get a registration attest without the original 1929 to show the Mot man.
Will not run out of work to do .
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
30-09-2019, 06:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-09-2019, 06:16 PM by Reckless Rat.)
You do not need dipping headlamps for the MOT. What is acceptable is a "matched pair of headlamps the beams of which are permanently directed downwards so as not to dazzle oncoming traffic".
You do NOT need to fit flashing indicators either.
Brake lights, yes, a matched pair as per rear lights, and reflectors
Unless, of course you take the car for MOT with no lights at all fitted. You get what's called a "daylight" MOT.
Take the car to a testing station where someone knows what they're talking about regarding old cars.
And assuming that the car is registered as being pre 1960 then you're not legally required to present it for MOT anyway, as it's exempt.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Fair comment Steve!
Nonetheless to have the head running a bit above coolant temp does not seem unusual. Whether it should get to that temp on a 10 mile drive at 35mph is another matter and affected by numerous things. A cooling system clean-up might very well be beneficial but whether it is needed is hard to say.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Doh!
Didn't spot that, my mistake. However, I believe the pre-1960 rule is an EU directive so I might not be too far wrong.