I bought, in anticipation of the day I would need to replace the king pin bushes, a king pin reamer when Tony B had them made. I was either not paying attention or having slept several times since have forgotten the instructions on use. I would be much obliged if a kind soul would enlighten me please on the method of use.
I have a late Girling axle and have removed the two plugs, pin and bushes. The pin is about 3 thou undersize and worn only in the region of the top bush. I note there is a long cutter on one end and the other has two in close proximity, probably for use once one bush has been reamed in order to keep them in line. Does one start with the longer cutter and which bush, top or bottom?
Any (friendly) suggestions would be welcome, thank you in anticipation
Regards
It all seems very simple but aint necessarily so. Many cars are fitted with non standard dia pins. (The original were just under .5 inch to suit standard .5 inch bush bores.) In theory bushes can be .5” before fitting but many are much smaller which complicates reamer alignment but helps if hub slightly bent, as many are.
With the pre Girling hubs the lower bush is blind ended hence the need for a special reamer with blades full dia to the end for the final cut; an irksome Seven complication through the ages.
A reamer with a guide is the ideal, esp if hub slightly bent.
Adjustable reamers useable with Girling have provision for a guide but more difficult to avoid chatter marks than fixed reamer.
The kingpins sometimes distort slightly when the cotter tightened. It is important do not bind in bushes. Not only does it cause wander but the bushes often then turn in hub; another unwanted complication.
The reamer must be turned with a push and pure rotation, side pull causes to cut oversize.
25-04-2019, 08:58 AM (This post was last modified: 25-04-2019, 08:58 AM by Stuart Joseph.)
Good morning. The thing to remember when using reamers is that they must always be turned clockwise. Reversing them traps swarf between the cutting edges and blunts them.
Jack if you have access to them, there is an excellent article on the use of this reamer in one of the very early (1970s) A7CA grey mags. Having moved house, mine are still packed away but perhaps the bearded wizard can lay his hands on one.
Hi Ian,
Thank you that is just the piece of information I needed, I was unaware of the narrow end and having measured mine I find it is as indicated in the drawing. I shall proceed with confidence
Thanks also to the other respondents I have taken in the thoughts and advice and will apply them.
Regards Jack
I've been very busy, trying to get a job sorted out. That a well known austin idiot has let me down on.
Now having to try do the work myself, that I'm not tooled up for. And don't have three pairs of hands etc. So won't be be answering phones for a wile.
You should never use a 1/2 inch reamer, unless you are skilled at this bodge. And even then you will scrap the odd bush, or end up spinning the reamer in a drill to make the hole larger so the pin isn't tight. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that you have to get very skilled at stopping the reamer from WANDERING.
There is NO GUIDE on a standard 1/2 inch reamer. And working by hand. Doesn't garrantee the reamer will line up both bushes.
All kingpin bushes, should be made aprox 10 though under size. Austin and girling.
The left hand end of the reamer pictutred is 10 thou under 1/2 inch. THIS IS YOUR GUIDE.
When the guide reaches the bottom bush, the Middle cutter will cut the top bush at 1/2 inch. Perfectly in line with the bottom bush.
Turn the reamer over, the other end is also a 1/2 inch cut. When this end reaches the bottom bush, the Middle cutter will act as a GUIDE in the top bush.
You will need a standard 1/2 reamer, to do the axle eye. Why waiste the expensive reamer on a steel axle.
And what a bargain they were at £70.00 I think main suppliers are now charging £250.00 for these reamers.
