Ruby engine removal?

[Darren D]

Hi guys,

How easy is it to whip the engine out of a Mk 1 Ruby? I have taken the bonnet off and radiator out and have very good all round access to the engine. I can see the 4 engine mounting points. I am happy to leave the gearbox in the car because it works fine. How is the gearbox connected to the engine? Many thanks for the help and advice. 

[Chris KC]

You're well on your way already Darren. Just systematically disconnect everything connected to it. Have you got the A7 companion? There is sound advice within. The gearbox is just a ring of nuts to undo around the bell housing and it slides free - owners in the know leave off the nuts which are hard to get at! 
I would pause to think about what you want to come out with it. For example you could remove the starter and dynamo making it lighter to lift, but you may prefer to leave them undisturbed.
Dare I ask why you want the engine out? You might find whatever you want to do is manageable in situ.

[Nick Salmon]

If you have a hoist or a mate who can help lift it is easier to take out the gearbox and engine in one lump. Just undo all connections, unbolt propshaft, and off you go.

With the 'Curse of the blind spline' you will have b*gger of a job trying to get the engine back in if it has come out on its own.

[Charles Levien]

Hi guys,

How easy is it to whip the engine out of a Mk 1 Ruby? I have taken the bonnet off and radiator out and have very good all round access to the engine. I can see the 4 engine mounting points. I am happy to leave the gearbox in the car because it works fine. How is the gearbox connected to the engine? Many thanks for the help and advice. 

Would suggest you take the engine out with gearbox attached. May seem a hassle at this stage but will make life simpler later on when reinstalling as you won’t have the problem of mating the dreaded splines  —which has been known to drive a good man crazy.

Charles

[Chris KC]

I just don't get the blind spline issue - I simply rotate both engine and gearbox to 6 o'clock position before assembly and wiggle it in, never held me up more than a minute or two.

[Nick Salmon]

I just don't get the blind spline issue - I simply rotate both engine and gearbox to 6 o'clock position before assembly and wiggle it in, never held me up more than a minute or two.

 I smell Witchcraft! 

[Derek Sheldon]

I’m with Chris K C, a dodle. My procedure is well documented.

[e-richard]

Blind Spline:

I remember many moons ago, I was 18; I easily removed Engine, restored, rebored, fixed everything, then asked my father to help put it back.
Getting the engine to slide smoothly onto the spline was a real pain. It was the first time in my life I had ever heard my father use a 4 letter word beginning with F - and he used it frequently!

So, do not underestimate the problem..... But on a positive note, the most useful tool we used was a dentist's mirror to see how the spline lined up.
And we "managed"

[Charles Levien]

I’m with Chris K C, a dodle. My procedure is well documented.

Ok — you pays your money and you takes your pick. I have also done this quite a few times when sorting out my clutch and agree it can be done fairy easily if you have some experience. I just got the impression that Darren was new to things.

Charles

[Hugh Barnes]

The little trick I have always found useful when aligning the blind spline is to set the gearbox spline at, say, 12 o'clock, set the fywheel to match. At that point, you then mark the flywheel with a chalk mark that will show if the flywheel has moved at all. Not guaranteed, but it does seem to help for me...