I am stripping my Zenith 30VEI and the pin which provides the pivot for the lever connecting the strangler lever to the throttle via a rod is very badly worn, so I want to replace it.
I am assuming it is a straight press fit item so intend cutting it off 2mm proud of the carb body and drilling it out.
For obvious reasons I am very nervous of doing any damage to the carb body, so would appreciate an expert opinion about my proposed course of action.
The pin I'm talking about is the one next to the screw driver in the pic.
I'm no expert but my opinion is leave it along unless it doesn't work.
And don't use heat - one thing I do know is the alloys they used have a low melting point.
I have in a different situation made a sleeve of thin metal ( ie from a tin) and slid it in to produce a firmer fit. Allthough a piece of brass would probably be better.
Ian
(03-11-2018, 05:48 PM)Viteran Wrote: I have in a different situation made a sleeve of thin metal ( ie from a tin) and slid it in to produce a firmer fit. Allthough a piece of brass would probably be better.
Ian
Thanks for that. I had thought about sleeving it but the pin has worn eccentrically (a bit like its owner) and the idea of filing it down, sleeving it and filling the gaps with solder is probably beyond my skills, plus you end up with the wrong bearing material as you point out. The action is hardly precise, so I shall live with it as is. Just me trying to be an engineer and see off my "inner bodger"!
I have very little experience with carburettors, other than doing the basics, but having decided to rebuild the engine with a new crank and a less aggressive camshaft I am very keen to ensure that the original ancillaries remain in situ and fully functional. Not even sure if the 30VEI is that great a carb, but I'm a conservationist at heart, so I want to get it working as well as I can. I agree completely it is much better I leave it alone rather than mess it up, but I had hoped one of the greybeards would say it was an easy fix - here's how to do it.
If you don't want to disturb the casting, could you not try to build up the presently-asymetric post with something with tiny amounts of JBWeld, using a micro thin brass shim to keep it separate from the surrounding actuator, as a mould, if you like.
I understand it's not a great problem, but the alloy casting is presumably going to be under more pressure if its not efficient in its actions?
See what Steve Hodgson would do, perhaps. It may be easy to replace the brass pin and he might find other areas of wear to help keep it efficient.
I'd be interested to know the c. number on the carb. If its not the original item, you could be running with an overlarge 23mm choke if it's a Speedy item for instance. i.e. just unnecessary fuel wastage, especially if you are going to make it less lary, camshaft-wise.
There's no CS number visible, which I would expect to be 527. On top of the float chamber cover are "30VEI" and "6877", which looks like a serial number. The choke is 21mm, which is what I'd expect. The carb does not have the automatic strangler mechanism.
I don't know Steve Hodgson. Do you have contact details? However, both Chris KC and Nick Turley advise to leave well alone so I'm inclined to do what I'm told!
