RP Rear Hub

[AmytheAustin]

Whilst on our way home last night from a weekend rally, when pulling away from traffic lights on a couple of occasions was very sluggish as if the clutch was slipping, drive would then kick in and all was well. Then, after stopping to check the route, let the clutch out but no drive at all. After a quick check called the recovery truck and had an easy ride home!
Upon investigation today, traced the problem to the near side rear hub. Wheel was very wobbly and when I removed wheel & drum, the hub nut was not tight and the hub turned on the drive shaft. A previous owner had put a poor excuse for a split pin in but it didn't pass through the castleations so nut could work loose.
Unfortunately the hub thread is jiggered so I'm unable to use the hub puller to remove it.

My question is, how come the hub could turn freely on the half shaft but not pull off and should the woodruff key not stop it turning even if the nut was loose? Have tightened the nut up and now have drive but am concerned that the key may have sheared or perhaps there wasn't one in the first place.

Any ideas how to clean the threads up to enable the hub puller to be used or how to remove it without puller?

Cheers

---

PS added a couple of washers behind the nut so when tightened the split pin passed tightly through the castleations.............

[AustinWood]

It probably wouldn't pull off because the hub may be tight on the wheel bearing.
If it can turn the half-shaft key must have sheared.

[AmytheAustin]

It probably wouldn't pull off because the hub may be tight on the wheel bearing.
If it can turn the half-shaft key must have sheared.

Thanks, sounds about right........I'll have to find a way of removing the hub........then I'd better check the off side rear!!

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Spot welding the puller into the hub has worked for me in the past.

[AmytheAustin]

Spot welding the puller into the hub has worked for me in the past.

Now there's a thought....... 

[Colin Reed]

Hi,
Bruce white in Australia  had a solution using a steel ring 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch that was slipped over the Thread and welded in place and used a standard three leg puller .

Colin Reed
NZ

[Bob Culver]

It is unlikley to be on very secure. A few wiggle woggles with the nut slack will likely loosen. Careful work with a knife will likely separate the halves. Please do not use the traditonal cold chisel!

I trust you have been following all the posts on this neverending topic The hubs do not have to fail. The original diff was removed from my car at 110,000 serviceable with original axles, and it lived in an extremely steep suburb.

Once off it may be practicable to re screw cut the thread, but it is likely axle and hub are damaged beyond reasonable recovery. If no big cracks It is worth a try. The nut shuld be regularly tightend.

[squeak]

David Cochrane lists a die for the hub thread here    http://www.a7c.co.uk/spares.php#nogo
Failing that there is also one on ebay right now. If your puller has damaged threads you can get away with cutting off the last half inch for a fresh start.
With the hub now off you can replace the key which is likely sheared and IF the hub and taper are any good, reassemble. 
From your description the axle nut was so far up the thread that the split pin was past the castellations. In this situation the nut can bottom on the step at the axle taper,  and not apply any pressure. You have correctly placed a washer to fix this, but this too can drop into the rebate at the end of the axle thread, or a too small ID to go over the taper, with the same result.
If all the foregoing is sorted and you are using the same axle/hub combination, be aware that because the hub is so far up the taper you may experience binding between the axle cog and crownwheel carrier, to the point of lockup.
If this is the case you will need a new hub, at least.
Hope there's some help there, good luck.  Russell

[bob46320]

The woodruff key is not there to provide a drive between the half shaft and the hub.  The tapers are the mechanism for the drive and that is why the shaft should be lapped into the hub.  The problem with old shafts and hubs is that there is less metal available for lapping the two together after 80 odd years of use.  The key is there just to stop the shaft turning as you tighten up the hub nut. I doubt the nut worked loose, more a case of the shaft and hub surfaces wearing slightly and becoming loose.  I now assemble shaft and hub with "LocTite Bearing Fit" to delay any wear between the surfaces and to fill any imperfections in the mating surfaces.
I was lucky enough to find some better half shafts, but the ones I used for 10 years had the keyways ripped out of them. These were welded up to fill the holes and then re-machined. One hub was a poor fit and I used "tin can" metal to make a cone shaped shim and assembled with "Liquid Metal" paste.

[Chris KC]

If the thread is not completely trashed careful use of a thread chaser might do the trick.