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#11
Hi Randy welcome to the wonderful world of Sevens. You'll find lots of good advice on your car here. For something a little closer to home, I'm in Mukilteo so can perhaps help as well. My email is evolkstorf@earthlink.net.

Erich in Mukilteo
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#12
thanks Mike for the car number info. I don't think I'm going to find an actual chassis # on this car, but it's legal here so I'm somewhat OK.
Erick that's great that there is something local, are there others around as well? In the car I found a membership card from a sevens club in BC. unfortunately the PO has passed and there is not much to learn on that end.
Thanks
Randy
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#13
There are a small number of Sevens in BC, and some here in Washington and Oregon. They seem to keep coming out of the woodwork as I just found a fellow who lives just outside Snohomish who has a Ruby saloon. One thing you'll likely find a bit different from your MGA and TC, is that the threads are all British. As I understand it, postwar companies like MG began using SAE sizes for at least some parts. Sevens use Whitworth form, Whitworth for coarse threads, BSF for fine threads, BA for electrical and other small bits like instruments, BSPT and BSPP for piping and the odd ball like Admiralty thread for, as I recall, the hubs.

Erich in Mukilteo
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#14
thanks erich yes i am onto the thread type stuff. the MGA is almost entirely sae.the td mostly bsf and oddly some metric, I gather there was some moving about of assets after the first war and some machine works on the continent ended up in GB. (hotchkiss), a lot of the drive train stuff on the T series MG are metric threads with whitworth ATF measures. did any of this happen with the austin stuff?
thanks
Randy
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#15
If they are still original, every fastening on your Seven will be British or "Special". In the US, the following company (you may already know them) should be able to help: https://britishfasteners.com/


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#16
Randy, the chassis number will be on an alloy plate rivetted to the right-hand chassis frame; if that is missing then there is probably no way of finding the original number. However, many Sevens were registered using the Car Number rather than the Chassis Number (in fact the Austin Motor Co always asked for the Car Number, not the chassis number). By 1936 most Sevens used a Car Number incorporating the chassis number, but in the case of the Nippy you are lucky - the Car Number is AEB plus the body number. So in your case the Car Number is AEB 798 - order a repro plate from one of the cherished suppliers, fit it to the left-hand two holes in the side of the bulkhead, and you will have a legitimate id for the car.
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#17
there's a Nippy archive too online... yours looks to have lost a few original parts over the years; door locks and perhaps those lamp brackets? You could check for the numbers on the back axle, gearbox top/end and engine number.... they may give you more possible original Sports items.
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#18
Tony thanks for that chart, very helpfull.  Mike thanks your #plate idea is what I have been   thinking as well. Jon yes quite a few non original parts on the car, I am still sifting thru whats there and what is missing. Is there such a thing as exploded parts diagrams specific to the Nippy? so far I have'nt seen any.
thanks
Randy
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#19
Randy, you need the archive, check out the handbooks and parts lists https://archive.a7ca.org/collections/han...rts-lists/
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#20
Randy, it was WW2 rather than WW1 where the crossover from Whitworth form to SAE began to change. Military equipment which came to the UK didn't have any Whitworth form threads, so the mechanics had to have and understand SAE thread pitch. I think that BSP is used here in the US, but all other bits are Whitworth form. BA developed from the Thiry thread which is a watch making thread form from Switzerland. Tony's link to British Fasteners will get you most of what you need. I will note that they are short some things and I have had to go elsewhere. BA is fairly easy as model makers use it. BSF is getting harder to find.

Erich in Mukilteo
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