Chummy indicator fitting. Where to pick up power

[PeterN]

For supply to indicator relay on a 1930 Chummy, where is the best point to pick up 6V power. is it ok to use either of:-
1) Input side of the ammeter
2) Direct to the battery
3) Supply side to the coil
4) Anywhere else more suitable
Thanks for advice

[Robert Leigh]

First suggestion is output from ignition switch (same as supply side of coil), but if using old fashioned filament lamps this may be unwise because you will add 6 amps to the load on the switch and wiring for which it was not designed. If using LEDs this should not be a problem. If you plan to have hazard lights included they must not require the ignition switch to be 'on' because they must be operable when everything else is 'off'. Also filament bulbs will require 12 amps in hazard operation. We really need to know your whole plan before giving you a definitive answer. If you plan an LED system Dynamo Regulator Conversions can supply everything and their good advice is usually free.

[Howard Wright]

Hi Peter

When I re-wired my RK I did so as original with no brake or indicator lights.  I then had the philosophy that any ‘new’ fitment would be easily removable so as to return the car to original if necessary.

The only departure was to mount a battery isolator switch under the passenger seat and facing forward so that it could be switched on and off without removing the seat.  

For ‘new’ additions I took a lead from the isolator switch to a small fuse box mounted under the passenger seat next to the battery. From this I power indicators and brake lights.  The indicator solenoid and warning buzzer is right next to the fuse box and the indicator switch is mounted between the seats. I use a pull switch on the near side brake cable immediately under the floor for the brake lights.  I think I went a bit overboard and wired a trailer plug under the rear body so that the indicator and brake light units could be removed at any time.  Similarly I have bullet connectors on the front indicators.  I’ve never used this facility. I’ve also found that the warning buzzer is a little quiet.

When it came to my Special I did a similar thing but the lights are not removable.  However experience and my deafness meant that I wanted a warning light on the dash rather than a buzzer for the indicators so the feed for the indicators is from the A terminal on the SM5 Switchbox (Ammeter) and the solenoid is mounted under the dash.

Hope this helps.

Howard

[PeterN]

Very helpful, thanks both. The system will use 5w filament bulbs, no hazards or brake lights at this stage. I'll do as Howard recommends. Thanks again for the good advice

[John Cornforth]

Hi PeterN

The usual rating for 6 volt indicator bulbs is 18 Watts, you can get these in the small spherical pattern. It depends on the light fitting, but I can't help feeling that 5 Watts will be too feeble to be seen in bright daylight. Indicators are used for such a small proportion of the time that current drain isn't really an issue.

[Robert Leigh]

One thing I forgot to say is that LED lamps are available which show white when off and amber when operating. I have changed the front indicators on my imitation Ulster so that it looks period when the indicators are not on.

[Tony Griffiths]

One solution is to use a small 12-volt motorcycle battery and power the indicators - through a fuse - from that. On my cars, the indicators are all earthed back to the battery and, with 21-watt standard bulbs, are very bright.  The units I've used on PL3002 are the standard type sold for many years - a sort of mini "Rubber Light" that comes with a simple, right-angle bracket. I've fitted these to PL3002 on auxiliary brackets secured to the front wing stays and, at the back, on the number-plate support arm. Willie McKenzie has them on this page: http://austinrepro.com/headlamps/ Lots of people have used these. I saw them fitted on David Wortley's cars and tried to copy his especially neat mounting arrangement.

Rather than the massive switch provided with the indicators, I've used a small, less obvious one and connected to it is a loud warning buzzer https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/p-637-cab-buzzer?search=buzzer It's only available as a 12-volt but it does work on 6 - though not as loudly of course.

Connected to the same circuit as the buzzer is a tiny "grain of wheat" but very bright red LED light that really easy to fit anywhere - mine is just trapped against a tiny piece of wood slotted to "clip over" the inside edge of the driver's glove pocket. Something like this does the job   6-volt are also available.

The switch is available from: https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/...-on-switch.

For how long does the 12-volt battery run a 21-watt bulb continuously? About 5 hours - that's lots and lots of turnings into junctions.