Introduction from a New Owner!

[Leisureking]

In anticipation of rewiring the whole car, I have started removing all the old brittle wires which are a fairly  clear fire risk! The rear lights are of German origin, but I have no idea what they are from.

They have Wattage for both side and indicators, and seem very well made.

I have also started to line the interior with my favoured dynamat alternative, adhesive butyl roof flashing! Not sure how useful it will be, but I have found it to make quite a difference with other builds. The underlay arrives next week and I have decided to make some carpets to keep everything neat and more importantly to hide some of the horrors of the floor!!

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Next on the dismantling & cleaning rota is the differential!

The list of parts required gets steadily longer and longer…

[Tony Griffiths]

The rear axle is, as you probably know, the screw-in-torque-tube type. This lasted only around 18 months before being changed to the last of the short-chassis versions, the 'long-flange' design. In the past, people have reported problems with the screw-in version, but my 1930 Chummy had one and I added well over 120,000 miles to those already done on the original when the car was bought in 1963. So, it can't all be bad news! Some useful details on back axles here: http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...7&cmd=show

[Leisureking]

Thanks Tony, that’s really helpful. I have so much to learn!

I have a spare diff from a later car, but I am really keen to try and keep as much of it as “original” as possible. Probably a daft idea, but it feels like the right thing to do.

[Ray White]

I have to agree with Tony. The screw in type axle is what I have fitted to my 1930 Swallow Saloon. It seems pretty robust and quiet. Keep it. There may be a temptation to clean it out and replace the oil but this might not be a good idea. The axle is filled with an oil/grease mix which I have never changed on my car. What you don't want to do is fill it with an EP gear oil. Others will know what to use if you have to change or add to it...

[Leisureking]

For now, I simply intend to clean it externally whilst in situ, but given the condition of the oil in the engine and gearbox, I am expecting a nice goo to be hiding in there! I’ve not taken the sump plug out yet, but it is on the list of things to do today!

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Woodrow suggests 7/8 of a pint of SAE 140 oil. As it has been standing for so long, I suspect it will need some form of cleaning. All will be revealed shortly!!

[Howard Wright]

Hi

Before you do too much cleaning or dismantling I would mark the position of the screw in torque tube and the side adjusters (that lurk under plates under the goo either side of the banjo).  That way if you disturb anything you have a chance of returning things to as they were.  If not it’s a full axle out and back axle set up!

Cheers

Howard

PS You can safely take the plate off the back of the banjo which will give you a good way of assessing the goo inside and the condition of the crown wheel.

[Reckless Rat]

Looking at it I would suspect that most of its liquid contents have probably left for pastures new...

[Chris Garner]

The rear axle is, as you probably know, the screw-in-torque-tube type. This lasted only around 18 months before being changed to the last of short-chassis types. In the past, people have reported problems with this version, but my Chummy had one and I added well over 120,000 miles to those already done on the original by 1963. So, it can't all be bad news! Some useful details on back axles here: http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...7&cmd=show

I'm a great fan of the screw-in torque tube rear axle. Some say it was weak but I never, like Tony,  found this to be the case. The real beauty is than one can easily " tune " the meshing without all the faff associated with other types. Long live the SITT!

[Leisureking]

Goo update…

https://youtu.be/Xjfyo2OSvT0

Definitely treacle in there!

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Thanks Howard.

All I have done so far is clean off as much of the external mess as I can, and then drain the “oil” from the diff. Its pace in leaving the banjo is somewhat glacial though! I am toying with the idea of flushing the whole thing with a paraffin mix. Bad idea?

I would prefer not to remove the whole assembly, if possible, for no reason other than if I carry on like this I will have nothing left but a very large Austin jigsaw puzzle! I have already decided that the whole front axle assembly needs to be removed…

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Looking at it I would suspect that most of its liquid contents have probably left for pastures new...

You guessed it. The remainder is very reluctant to leave though!

[Ruairidh Dunford]

If you use a hot air gun, to warm up the contents, you may find it will start to come out.

You will need quite a bit of heat.