Ulster rep wiring loom

[goodwoodweirdo]

Hi chaps, 

Just being a little lazy, before I set too and make a wiring loom for my car, has anyone a schema / scribbles on paper, cable lengths, colors etc...

Its for a swb, 12v and early coil engine.... would like flashing indicators but hazards not necessary.. 

Or are people buying new looms from our preferred suppliers and removing unwanted cables ??

many thanks in advance

Matt

[Steve Jones]

You can easily make your own from a 2m length of 7 core trailer/tow hitch cable.

Steve

[goodwoodweirdo]

Thanks Steve
that just could be a easy starting point

[Howard Wright]

Hi

Early cars (including Ulsters) didn’t have ‘looms’ as such but ran individual wires around the body.

I found Woodrow’s wiring diagrams helpful when I wired my short wheelbase special (and my RK). However on the Special I ran earth wires to all the ancillaries such as lights, horns etc.  

These early cars had no real fuse box.  So for brake, indicators, rev counter, ancillaries (12 volt fag lighter) I mounted a fuse box just in front of the passenger seat. Taking a power lead directly off the battery (under the passenger seat) allows a neat, accessible installation of all these later modifications without cluttering up the back of the dash too much!

I used modern wires where they didn’t show and aluminium sheathed where they did.

Hope this helps?

Howard

[Tony Griffiths]

This PDF might help: http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_a...Wiring.pdf
Wiring each bulb back to the battery is a good idea on 6 volts - but probably not essential on 12 to get the brightest indicators.
Lots of information on problems with interference with LED bulbs and flasher units in the forum search - but on a 12-volt system you'll probably be happy with just an ordinary set-up.
If you want an "original-looking" wire, a cotton-covered modern one is available: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p...core-cable
Original-type armoured cable can, of course, be obtained from our unusual suppliers: https://www.theaustinsevenworkshop.com/c...cal-wiring

[Chris Garner]

Original armoured cable is expensive and must be treated with respect when being used and installed. Because of the inherent shorting of live terminals etc out again the amour, it is important to plan routing and ensure shrink tubing is always used at the wire ends. One well known rewiring company baulks at using armoured and will not an offer of guarantee of the work. The upside is that it looks superb when fitted to a suitable period car.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I use armoured cable where it can been seen and stick to non armoured where it cannot, for the reasons Chris mentions above.

[AustinWood]

We get no interference with our 6V LED lights. I put this down to using armoured cable on the headlights which acts as an interference screen, and also earthing everything back to a central earth block under the dashboard.

[goodwoodweirdo]

Many thanks for all the advice, its much appreciated and I'll get to and make it ....

[Tony Griffiths]

We get no interference with our 6V LED lights. I put this down to using armoured cable on the headlights which acts as an interference screen, and also earthing everything back to a central earth block under the dashboard.

My car (with armoured cable to the headlights) and a 6-volt LED flaster set up, has a dynamo that only charges on the summer setting. With the dynamo not charging, the flashers worked perfectly. Switch the dynamo on and they didn't.  The other chummy is identical in set-up (i.e. a dynamo with just the summer charge) but on that, the LED flashers work perfectly. There wasn't even a need to install suppressors on the ignition system. So, what's going on!