Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 34 Threads: 8
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Location: Penarth
Car type: Box saloon 33
Hello, Is there a particular reason why we use the mounting screwed into the chassis which then requires the engine to be lifted in/out over the extended stud?
Would it not be easier for engine installing and removal to use a bolt screwed down through the crankcase mounting direct into the chassis-or am I missing something here?
Many thanks
Roger
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,401 Threads: 33
Reputation:
36
Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Yes. Unscrew the bolt from the chassis and put it in a vice, then screw the nut right down to the bottom of the thread. Then you have a bolt you can locate from above.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 19 Threads: 4
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Using a bolt instead of a stud would be easier. I think the engine mounting stud has the advantage of the integral flange (nut shaped). When the stud is tightened up in the normal way, the flange sits tight up onto the chassis and helps to provide a very firm mount. I believe this would help to ensure that there is no lateral movement due to the engine trying to move backwards and forwards. If movement occurs the the hole/thread in the chassis could be damaged.
I think this is why the engine mount with integral flange is used.
Regards Peter
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
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28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I chucked those studs into the hedge a long time ago. I guess the thinking was that they provide good location for the engine, whether or not the nuts are done up, obviating little dramas like the fan touching the radiator core etc. etc. Personally I never do any of the mounting bolts up tight, as the inevitable twist of the chassis is then fed directly into the crankcase.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,955 Threads: 558
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Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
What are people's thoughts on just nipping up two diagonal engine bolts and, in some cases, with a strong spring beneath one of the bolts? I know that some high-mileage, very experienced owners take that approach while others, of similar expertise, bolt the whole thing down as hard as possible. As far as I'm aware, both methods do not appear to cause any sort of problem.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
I stopped using the original front engine mount studs years ago and use 3/8" BSF bolts. I nip them down but don't whack up tight and, at the rear, use an old clutch spring under the chassis rail to the near side engine mount. This on both solid and rubber mounted crankcases. My old Trials Car did 25 or so years of trialling like this without any problems
Steve
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 484 Threads: 14
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Location: Dunchurch, Warwickshire
The use of studs instead of bolts for the front engine mountings came in with the rubber mounts. With solid feet you can tighten the bolts down, with rubber mounting you can't so the studs were fitted which use castle nuts locked by split pins.
