Torque settings

[frequentflyer]

I am after a few torque settings on the homebrew engine for the following areas any advice greatly appriciated.

-Camshaft retaining nut
-Crank nut flywheel end to pheonix crank
-Pheonix conrod bolts

Regards

Hugh

[David Cochrane]

I think that the Phoenix con-rod bolts should be 35 ftlbs.

[Chris KC]

I have no info on Phoenix rods and as it's important I'm not going to take a guess.

For the other two, I have never seen published or even suggested torque figures that I recall.

Camshaft nut - not sure what you mean by this Hugh. Do you mean the nut on the end which secures the gear? or the fan pulley? Or perhaps the screw which locates the front bush?
If the former, "tight" is sufficient. The screw needs to be nipped up securely but the thread is easily damaged so go steady.

The flywheel nut is as tight as you can reasonably get it. Most people use a long spanner or extension bar and pretty much stand on it. The main limitation is the need to stop the crank turning, which I normally do by poking a screwdriver through one of the peripheral holes in the flywheel.

[Charles P]

The camshaft nut ideally needs to be torqued up to the same level that it was when you lapped the gear to set the end float. The key requirement is repeatability rather than a specific number, because otherwise the end float may be wrong. After all, the tab washer stops it coming loose.

C

[Charles Levien]

I have no info on Phoenix rods and as it's important I'm not going to take a guess.

For the other two, I have never seen published or even suggested torque figures that I recall.

Camshaft nut - not sure what you mean by this Hugh. Do you mean the nut on the end which secures the gear? or the fan pulley? Or perhaps the screw which locates the front bush?
If the former, "tight" is sufficient. The screw needs to be nipped up securely but the thread is easily damaged so go steady.

The flywheel nut is as tight as you can reasonably get it. Most people use a long spanner or extension bar and pretty much stand on it. The main limitation is the need to stop the crank turning, which I normally do by poking a screwdriver through one of the peripheral holes in the flywheel.

Hi Chris,  not sure about the screwdriver through flywheel, bearing on a fragile part of the bell housing — to my shame I once broke a large piece off when using this method of locking the crank. 
Last time I did this job I used a wooden block inside the crankcase — something I learned from a guy who’d done the job many times.

[Chris Garner]

Charles: +1

[Chris KC]

I have no info on Phoenix rods and as it's important I'm not going to take a guess.

For the other two, I have never seen published or even suggested torque figures that I recall.

Camshaft nut - not sure what you mean by this Hugh. Do you mean the nut on the end which secures the gear? or the fan pulley? Or perhaps the screw which locates the front bush?
If the former, "tight" is sufficient. The screw needs to be nipped up securely but the thread is easily damaged so go steady.

The flywheel nut is as tight as you can reasonably get it. Most people use a long spanner or extension bar and pretty much stand on it. The main limitation is the need to stop the crank turning, which I normally do by poking a screwdriver through one of the peripheral holes in the flywheel.

Hi Chris,  not sure about the screwdriver through flywheel, bearing on a fragile part of the bell housing — to my shame I once broke a large piece off when using this method of locking the crank. 
Last time I did this job I used a wooden block inside the crankcase — something I learned from a guy who’d done the job many times.

I do mine up tight Charles, but not that tight! But yes point taken, and I do sometimes chock the crank with a bit of wood for this & other operations. The care point here of course is not to shed splinters in the case.

[Nick Turley]

Hello Chris they should be 35 ft lbs - definite !

[Robert Foreman]

For Phoenix rods.

   

[frequentflyer]

Many thanks for the numbers, pistons, rods and flywheel all fitted and turning round as it should. Hopefully get some more time over the easter holidays to get some more bits finished.
Just seem to be chasing too many jobs with the new austin engine and helping dad with his 1913 lagonda. A very strange car, sump, clutch housing and gearbox all one casting.