Fuel tank slosh sealant

[andrew34ruby]

It’s just the inside.

I don’t ask them how, just pleased they can and do.

I wonder if it is electro-plated.

[JohnD]

At the Centenary event this year i purchased a cheep chummy type scuttle tank [£20] it has had a few chewing gum patches which didnt bother me nor did the stripped brass boss for the fuel tap, as these are all simple solder repairs to sweat off and replace.

The internal of the tank has been "Sloshed" and is of a white/cream finish, this is flaking off now - does anyone have any idea on the best way to remove this?

My inital thought was Sweat off the back of the tank and scrape it out however someone suggested that if it was filled with celulose thinners that would dissolve the coating - has anyone any experience of this?

At the end of the day, the tank cost me next to nothing, i can save some of the fixings to reuse on another tank as required if i cannot remove the "Slosh"

[Reckless Rat]

Strap it to a cement mixer and chuck a bucket of limestone chippings inside and go and do something else for an hour while it does its stuff.

[Howard Wright]

Hi John

I bought a leaky Chummy tank a few years ago.  I tried some solder repairs but the rusting was so extensive that I had difficulty getting everything clean enough for the solder to take. And in any case the original turned out to be more like a cullender.

I decided to cut off the front of the tank and build a new tank behind it to the same dimensions as the original. I used brass and was surprised how inexpensive it was.

Cheers

Howard

[Duncan Grimmond]

I've tinned copper pans with pewter, flux and a moleskin pad but I wouldn't fancy doing that through the filler neck!

[jansens]

I used Red-Kote sealer on my Austin 7 tank I made and that seems to work well and is ethanol proof. It's dissolvable in acetone and actually comes as a dry, red powder you add acetone to. After sloshing it about the tank you can keep and reuse the unused portion. If you ever need to remove it you can redissolve it in acetone. People report failures with it but that seems to be due to the tank not being 100% dry when lining it (it won't stick to anything wet).

Before using it in the Austin I also did a small metal fuel can that I use often (lawn mower/weed-eater fuel) and that has also held up fine. And I just used some over 3 year old left overs to seal a rather pin-holed motorcycle tank and it's still working well. I've used POR 15 paints before with mixed results but not their tank sealers. The paint is a very high wastage product, once you open a tin you can't keep it long. And I found it either works really well or fails really badly. The failure was usually it peeling off in sheets (and that was after using their prep products). Is the tank sealer the same?

Simon

[Stumpi]

I  watched the making of a new tank for a Riley, the Mild Steel sheet was prepared with solder paint and  this has proved to be ok so far.
Andy

[Austin in the Shed]

At the Centenary event this year i purchased a cheep chummy type scuttle tank [£20] it has had a few chewing gum patches which didnt bother me nor did the stripped brass boss for the fuel tap, as these are all simple solder repairs to sweat off and replace.

The internal of the tank has been "Sloshed" and is of a white/cream finish, this is flaking off now - does anyone have any idea on the best way to remove this?

My inital thought  was Sweat off the back of the tank and scrape it out however someone suggested that if it was filled with celulose thinners that would dissolve the coating - has anyone any experience of this?

At the end of the day, the tank cost me next to nothing, i can save some of the fixings to reuse on another tank as required if i cannot remove the "Slosh"

I used acetone in my box tank to remove the sealer.