Oops on crank case

[JonE]

It would also mean it could be used before being welded then when the engine has to come out for something else, which is bound not to be too long! Can't do much harm...

[Erich]

What I have heard is that 12 volts causes the starter to engage much more violently. Additionally, I should add that the bolt which was loose is a skinny 3/16ths longer that the one on the other side and had been cut down from a longer bolt. Are these supposed to be unequal length as on the bacon slicer type? If not then that may have been the culprit. Perhaps someone bottomed the bolt out then continued to tighten. Or does the original tapped hole not have a bottom? So if the 12 volt system is the culprit, should I convert back to 6 volt?

Erich in Seattle

[AustinWood]

If I remember rightly the tapped holes for the starter housing are open into the bell housing. If too long the bolts can foul the flywheel.
It's a pity the starter isn't mounted on the other side then the torque wouldn't pull on the bolt.

[JonE]

I guess we have two separate issues on these engines:

1. the strength of the rear facing starter housing (not good as front facing) for that extra torque

2. whether you properly convert the motor, or just wing it because people say they work fine...

[Zetomagneto]

Drill and tap for two cap screw either side of the existing hole.  This can be done without removing the engine, if sufficient body dexterity exists.

Drill and tap into what, there is jus a big broken hole

I can, and have, repaired similar using two cap screws into the remaining metal on several engines Gene.  If you feel it is not possible you should consider alternatives, if you find yourself in a similar situation.

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Sorry Rorry, misunderstood what you meant.You meant drilling through starter bracket and tapping 2 new holes in the top of the crankcade, yes good idea.

[Erich]

I've seen from the posts that 12 volt may or may not be culprit. But substantially, the design is somewhat weak. My question continues...do I convert to 6 volt? I will note that the crankcase and housing do not have a locating pin or dowel, so that complicates the issue. What is the point of having a starter and can't use it if it is 12 volt? Do I convert with the associated changes necessary(cut out, horn, etc.) or do I stay with 12 volt?


Erich

[Charles P]

Stay at 12volt
Always have a spare set of starter brushes with you.
Remove the stater annually and check it over.
Make sure that both of the bolts/studs into the crankcase are always tight.

Charles

[Robert Leigh]

Drill and tap for two cap screw either side of the existing hole.  This can be done without removing the engine, if sufficient body dexterity exists.

Drill and tap into what, there is jus a big broken hole

I can, and have, repaired similar using two cap screws into the remaining metal on several engines Gene.  If you feel it is not possible you should consider alternatives, if you find yourself in a similar situation.

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Sorry Rorry, misunderstood what you meant.You meant drilling through starter bracket and tapping 2 new holes in the top of the crankcade, yes good idea.

If the flywheel housing is repaired by the good tig welder we all need, he could make sure there was plenty of 'meat' to allow two tapped holes, and with the starter mounting drilled suitably you have two bolts doing the job previously done by only one. Starter torque from 12 volts would be most unlikely to cause any repeat of the problem, which may well have started from a worn thread; those bolts have been in and out quite a few times in the life of the car, which has probably well outlasted Sir Herbert's plans for it!
Robert Leigh

[Ruairidh Dunford]

This is exactly the approach I have taken with one of my own cars Robert.

It’s original bacon slicer starter motor was quite severe and after threads became weak and repairs less effective I swapped over to the later starter as shown in Erich’s photos. I found this a much gentler operation and rigged a floor mounted button to operate it.

I also took the opportunity to drill and tap two cap screws into better metal either side of the original hole. Corresponding holes allow the starter casing to be mounted firmly down. I have run this set up for a good number of years and applied the same technique to ‘repair’ other crankcases (that had failed in a similar way to Erich’s), two of which were still in the car at the time. Once the carpet is back over the top nobody is any the wiser and you end up with a (potentially) stronger mounting than original. I can thoroughly reccomend it to anyone struggling with an issue here.

[Charles P]

This is exactly the approach I have taken with one of my own cars Robert.

It’s original bacon slicer starter motor was quite severe and after threads became weak and repairs less effective I swapped over to the later starter as shown in Erich’s photos.  I found this a much gentler operation and rigged a floor mounted button to operate it.

I also took the opportunity to drill and tap two cap screws into better metal either side of the original hole.  Corresponding holes allow the starter casing to be mounted firmly down.  I have run this set up for a good number of years and applied the same technique to ‘repair’ other crankcases (that had failed in a similar way to Erich’s), two of which were still in the car at the time.  Once the carpet is back over the top nobody is any the wiser and you end up with a (potentially) stronger mounting than original.  I can thoroughly reccomend it to anyone struggling with an issue here.

Carpet?

You do travel in style

C