Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 518 Threads: 90
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As the time when I shall be ready to start on my Ruby chassis is getting closer, I am trying to decide what paints to use on it. I plan to clean it with wire wheels and brushes, but I do not know what to use for the best as a finish. Whatever I use, though, I wish to brush on, rather than spray, if possible.
What have others used that is still available today and that has proven to last?
Thank you.
Jamie.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,715 Threads: 47
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
I am interested to know more about your experiences with POR 15 Reckers, especially as you have recommended it on other threads so must have used it for a while. A number years ago there was some quite aggressive marketing for the stuff so I decided to try it on a few component's. To be honest my results were not great so I did not bother again, I must admit it flowed out very well giving a very nice finish, my issue was that rust very quickly spread like a cobweb beneath the paint. These were components that were previously rusted but had been mechanically cleaned as far as possible and then treated with a rust converter before painting. I have never had this happen to the extent it did under POR 15, I put it down to the paint being moisture cured and went back to using what works for me. There may be some critical process that I missed or got wrong and which is worth repeating here so other's don't fall into the trap I did.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 16 Threads: 2
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Location: New Zealand
Car type: 1937 Austin 7 Special under construction
For many years I have used POR15 on all components requiring painting and always delighted with the finish off the brush. However, as mentioned by Ian, occasionally one would get the the cobweb of rust under the paint.
I don't know if I'm getting lazy or wiser, but now I just give everything including the chassis a couple of coats of Rust-Oleum direct from a spray can and it appears to provide a very resistant finish.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,109 Threads: 110
Reputation:
22
Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi All
I think the secret, if there is one, is preparation. I had the chassis on my special blast cleaned and then I sprayed it with an etch primer, followed by several coats of Lechler Tecnogrip. This latter coating seemed really good but I’ve since found out that is dissolves in petrol. Seems to hold out to oil. Still no sign of rust three years on.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Oct 2017 Posts: 1,506 Threads: 54
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I've used Marcel Guest chassis black for decades which sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 518 Threads: 90
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Thank you for these suggestions. I shall look into these.
Jamie
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
POR-15 self-levels beautifully off the brush. However it is not UV-stable and the makers recommend to over-coat it with "chassis black", which does not self level and looks a proper mess if you brush it on. Might not be necessary on a frame which is not much exposed to light.
I rather suspect the secret of POR-15 is in the preparation more than the coating itself. If the frame is properly cleaned, degreased and keyed before painting I'd have though any decent gloss black paint would do.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 628 Threads: 19
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
I used Paintman Paints chassis black for a Land Rover I restored 3 years ago. About £30 a litre.
