Get me Home

[bob46320]

The other day, there was a post regarding an engine that wouldn't start - was it coil, wiring etc etc.  I think I replied something like wire the coil direct to the battery.
Well, today whilst on a club outing 32 deg C !! phew.. engine stopped and we coasted onto the grass verge. Within a few minutes, 5 or 6 heads appeared .... questions, questions ....   I had had a few murmurings from the ignition switch the other week causing the ammeter to swing about.
Thinking that the switch was the problem, I was able to quickly run a cable from battery + to the + side of the coil and we were back in business.  Just shows how useful a length of wire and two crocodile clips can be !!  Incidentally and of absolutely no need to know, the wire was taken from a scrapped Vickers Valiant bomber which was being broken up in 1965 at Weybridge - the wire is still flexible and insulation in good order!
Now I had better get down to the shed and fix that switch before we go on a longer jog with Bruce alias Reckers.
Bob

[bob46320]

Today, SM5 switch panel taken off and at first glance, no obvious problem. Stripped it down - Removed the 2 x 4Ba screws holding the ammeter terminals onto the ammeter.  Removed the 2 x round 2Ba 'nuts' on the terminal posts of the switch levers.  (These were originally locked into place with solder, but this had been removed by a previous owner). Removed the 2 x 2Ba nuts holding the Bakelite terminal plate to the front bakelite plate.
Contacts cleaned etc - but no real problem found ????  Backtrack a little.
How does the electricity pass through the switch ? Researching this I concluded that there was an intermittent connection between the 2Ba round nuts, the brass "bus bar" and the steel posts which connects to the moving contractor of the switch lever. Further investigation showed that there was a corroded aluminium washer beneath the 'round nut'. Lets hope that is the problem !!

Ps - The blue wire is in place of the resistance wire wound around the ignition light - I assume the light is probably 9 or 12 volt. I Darednt remove it as it is well and truly stuck in and it has worked for me for 25 years.

[Ivor Hawkins]

That switch is in far better condition than Most of the ones I’ve had to contend with over the years...