Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 294 Threads: 11
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Having got the car to run (see 'no sparks ' thread) I now find that the ignition warning light will not go out and the ammeter shows a discharge; regardless of r.p.m. As the car has not been out for quite some time (before the Pandemic) I am wondering if the dynamo has lost it's residual magnetism?
I have tested the dynamo - a C35M - and found relatively high resistance from both terminals.
I would like to know if the dynamo needs "flashing"... or is this a last resort? For example, should I try driving about to see if it starts to charge, or investigate the possibility of a sticking brush or something else.
To be honest, I am not sure what to do first.
Any advice would be appreciated....
Ray.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Dynamos are fairly easily to test on the car. Take a wire from both the D and F terminals on the dynamo, connect them together and then test with a voltmeter when the engine is running. The voltage should rise to anything up to 15 volts ir more as the engine speed increases.
However, given your previous comments regarding the ignition switch, I would see if there is a poor contact in that first. Try wiggling the charge/lighting knob and see if that brings the charging circuit to life. The dynamo field windings earth out via the charging part of the switch, either directly (Winter) or through a resistor (Summer). If they are not earthed, you won't get any charge.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,106 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Ray
I would also check that the cut out is working. As the revs rise the cutout should close and allow current to flow to the battery. Without use the cutout can stick open.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 294 Threads: 11
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So, there may not be anything wrong with the dynamo (despite the ignition warning light staying on and the ammeter showing a discharge regardless of RPM) and I should first look elsewhere?
Ray.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,641 Threads: 93
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Location: Monmouthshire
As above, I would check the cut out first.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 294 Threads: 11
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15-07-2022, 10:35 AM
(This post was last modified: 15-07-2022, 10:46 AM by Ray White.)
I checked out the cut out and the points are working freely. I had the CF1 professionally rewound and restored a few years ago and it still looks nice. I overhauled the dynamo at about the same time so am a bit irritated that it seems to have stopped working. I will do the check with the engine running later.
I seem to remember the ignition switch can crack causing an intermittent short.?........but how would that happen if not being used?
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
You can check your dynamo with nothing more than a 6 volt bulb. Connect a wire from a test bulb (use a spare headlamp bulb if you have one.) to a good earth and the other wire to the dynamo. I cannot recall which of the two connections on the top of the dynamo you connect to. No doubt somebody on the forum will know but I doubt if any damage will be caused if you connect to the wrong one while you do a quick test. If the dynamo is charging the bulb will light and get brighter as the revs are increased. Do not rev to high otherwise the bulb will glow really bright and burn out. Don’t ask how know.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 294 Threads: 11
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As suspected, the fault was a loss of residual magnetism. A quick flash on the field terminal and the dynamo is now charging. The ignition warning light goes out first, followed by the ammeter needle swing to the right showing 'charge'.
Thank you everyone for your help and advice.