Annoying knock from camshaft front pulley area

[Bob Culver]

Slight build up with solder assists seal around the oil hole and helps retain the bush.

[Lowbarn]

Fixed the camshaft using the bolted bush repair.
No camshaft end float.
Dynamo end float also fixed.

Problem now is a very harsh knock from the flywheel area which goes away completely when the clutch is pressed.
I could not see any damage or movement in any of the bearings while the engine was out.
I didn’t remove the flywheel, thinking the original problem was the camshaft.

I have also noticed that the flywheel can be rocked about 1/4” either way. Whilst resetting the timing.

Any ideas what the current knock might be?

[David Stepney]

Loose Flywheel?

[Howard Wright]

Loose flywheel +1

Howard

[Reckless Rat]

Certainly sounds like it - engine out job I'm afraid.

[Lowbarn]

The only part I didn’t check! Thought I could save time by not removing the clutch assembly.

At least I’m getting proficient at engine removal.

Is it simply a matter of tightening the flywheel nut?

[Terrytuned]

Remove flywheel and check or replace f/wheel key and check oil seal and oil thrower or you could endup removing the engine a third time. Terry.

[David Stepney]

No. The flywheel fits to the crank with a taper. If the flywheel has been loose for any length of time. it will have fretted on the end of the crank.  I would remove the flywheel and examine the crank, the taper hole in the flywheel and the key and keyways for signs of damage. Damage to the taper can be corrected by lightly grinding the flywheel and crank together with a bit of grinding paste. GO CAREFULLY! It is surprising how quickly metal is removed. A smear of engineers blue on the crank will tell you where the high spots are. You need a good even fit along the taper lands. Remember that there is a gap in the centre of the taper face in the flywheel.

When lapping the flywheel, , do it without the oil thrower that lives behind it and against the rear main bearing and check that there is a gap between the flywheel and the inner race of the rear main bearing. It the flywheel does go up[ against the rear main, then the taper will not grip properly.

Finally, do not be tempted to Loctite the flywheel to the taper!! You might be the unfortunate person to try and get it off again!

Fit a new key. New keys are available form cherished suppliers and, when you are happy with the fit of the flywheel onto the crank, replace the oil thrower and tighten the nut to about 150 ft/lbs.

[Dave Mann]

Make sure that there is clearance between the top of the key and the flywheel.

[Howard Wright]

No. The flywheel fits to the crank with a taper. If the flywheel has been loose for any length of time. it will have fretted on the end of the crank.  I would remove the flywheel and examine the crank, the taper hole in the flywheel and the key and keyways for signs of damage. Damage to the taper can be corrected by lightly grinding the flywheel and crank together with a bit of grinding paste. GO CAREFULLY! It is surprising how quickly metal is removed. A smear of engineers blue on the crank will tell you where the high spots are. You need a good even fit along the taper lands. Remember that there is a gap in the centre of the taper face in the flywheel.

When lapping the flywheel, , do it without the oil thrower that lives behind it and against the rear main bearing and check that there is a gap between the flywheel and the inner race of the rear main bearing. It the flywheel does go up[ against the rear main, then the taper will not grip properly.

Finally, do not be tempted to Loctite the flywheel to the taper!! You might be the unfortunate person to try and get it off again!

Fit a new key. New keys are available form cherished suppliers and, when you are happy with the fit of the flywheel onto the crank, replace the oil thrower and tighten the nut to about 150 ft/lbs.

Hi

I might just disagree with David on the use of Loctite.  It really depends on what Loctite product you use.

I use Loctite 660 which is a liquid metal retaining compound. I’ve found that it obviates the need for excessive lapping of the taper when there is too little clearance between the flywheel boss and bearing. I’ve not needed to remove a flywheel that has been fitted with this product but I have removed rear hubs which I have fitted using it. I’ve found no problem.

I also use a mild Loctite on the nut. 

One extra bit of advice…Do the nut up very tightly.  I use a 3’ breaker bar with a fair bit of heave on the end   .

Cheers

Howard