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DOPED FABRIC
#1
There I was, innocently gearing up to covering the 1922 saloon body with leathercloth, when my customer sent me a roll of alarmingly expensive Irish linen and a couple of tins of shrinking dope.

I have some idea of the theory of how to use this stuff, but I have never actually done so.

My main concern is about fixing the edges of the linen to the woodwork sufficiently to avoid it pulling off as it shrinks.

If anyone has experience of fitting doped linen to a timber/ply structure, any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated, before I do something that I shall regret!


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#2
It might be worth an investigation into the vintage aeroplane scene

A starter here http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/
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#3
hi martin.

i couldnt find shrinking dope anywere.

non shrinking was everywere.

any chance of letting me know were it was bought.

thanks tony
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#4
Polyester type fabrics (heat shrinking) are bonded to to both wooden & metal airframes using a product called super-seam cement. I can't see why it wouldn't work with linen. I think it is compatible with both Nitrate & Butrayte dopes but may we woth checking whith these guys:-
https://www.lightaero.co.uk/products/article/C01OZ5619

D
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#5
Hi Tony.

Unfortunately, my customer is in hospital at the moment and I don't want to bother him with enquiries.

I don't know where he bought the dope, but this link will take you to the relevant page in the manufacturer's website: https://www.hmgpaint.com/home/Search?q=Shrinking+dope
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#6
    Martin, I have concerns over your customers choice of covering the body shell with Irish linen and dope.   I am not an expert on early aircraft but my understanding is that a doped linen would be used over a very light skeleton frame. As the dope dries and the linen shrinks, it becomes very tight and it is the tension created that gives the very flimsy frame its strength, rather like an umbrella when it is opened.
I assume that the linen would be tacked to wooden frame members and joints laboriously stitched.   Irish linen is quite thick material and I would worry about its suitability for going around fiddly areas like the window apertures.  On an aircraft it covers quite large, flat areas.
The body shell already has strength and the fabric covering does not need to add any strength. It only needs to be attractive and weather resistant.
What you are doing is exactly what I did when I built the Pytchley saloon.   Before I covered it, I made a couple of small plywood covered squares which I covered with different materials.   I then left them out in the weather over the winter to see what happened.
I used a thin cotton based material sold as curtain lining, very cheap from Boyes.  It is not tacked or stapled to the body shell, it is simply glued on.
Having primed the bare wood on the body shell, I painted sections with yacht varnish and whilst wet laid over the thin material and smoothed it out with a brush.  It is not stretched at all.   I cut the material oversize and when it came to doing the edges, I trimmed it with scissors and turned it over the frame, securing it with more varnish.  Because it is thin, you can overlap the material when you do fiddly corners and it all looks very neat.  Irish linen is too thick to get away with doing that.
As you apply the thin material, it becomes almost transparent with the varnish, becoming white as it dries.   When dry, I added another coat of the yacht varnish, then an oil based undercoat and two coats of Farrow and Ball oil based eggshell paint (when F & B paint was good, I would use Little Greene now).
Although I say so myself, the result looks very good and the car had instant 'age' and patina that you don't get if you use modern leathercloth.   Furthermore, after about 15 years the body finish is like new and extremely durable.
For the roof covering I used Everflex.  The shade of blue was not correct so I painted it with the F & B eggshell.
       
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#7
I built 2 cars with doped fabric bodywork for Austin 7 racing in 1979/80. The Red car and the Black car.

   

I used Irish linen doped with red tautening dope fiinish painted with household enamel.

My method, as recommended by the bloke at Shoreham airport that sold me the linen and dope was to prime the edges of the plywood with dope and when dry fit fabric and pin in position with dressmaking pins. Approx. 1 1/2 inch overlap, pinked edges.
Once satisfied with with the fit the edges were doped to fix the fabric.
After the edges dried the fabric was doped all over.
The pins were removed and a final coat of dope.
The result when dry was remarkable, drum tight and no wrinkles!

You'll need;
Linen
Dope
Dressmaking scissors
Pinking shears (for edges of fabric)
Dressmaking pins
Brushes etc.

I'd suggest it might be best to make a small test piece first!
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#8
Hello Malcolm.

I've admired pictures of your car in the past - it looks superb!

I'm in a complicated position with this project; it's not how I'd planned the build and is not necessarily the route I would have chosen to take, but "the customer is always right". He has successfully covered other bodies, apparently using the materials that he's supplied. I was going to ask him to talk me through fitting it, but unfortunately he's currently not in a position to help - hence my appeal for advice.

It may be a case of "If you want to go there, I wouldn't start from here", but here is where I am!

I'm pretty certain that the compound curves involved are sufficiently gentle to avoid the need for any stitching (I'd intended to skin the body side up to the gutter in aluminium and the roof in vinyl), as long as I can fix the separate pieces of fabric along the gutter line firmly enough to prevent them from pulling away when shrinking.

I think that this morning's project is going to be the construction of a test rig.

Henry - I've just seen your reply. That's very helpful, thank you. I'm off to build my test frame!
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#9
More info here...

https://members.gliding.co.uk/wp-content...on%202.pdf
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#10
Martin, I reckon you will still be 'high' on the fumes from the dope when i see you at Moreton in Marsh!
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