Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
Shearing split pins seems common practice, esp among "mechanics". But often damages threads. (mechanics have access to common taps and dies). Get away with using soft pins but many are springy and quite hard. Avoid these.The front hub nuts do not need to be especially tight; just collapses the spacer. (For decades most cars had taper rollers where the nut is finger tight or less and ratained only by the split pin, in which cae a new one is desirable.)
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
Reputation:
7
Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
It hadn't occurred to me to just shear the pin, but that's a good tip Ian. Thanks. I was pleased to find the 14mm spark plug socket dodge as I was kicking myself, a set of six sided Whitworth sockets having been on my shopping list for too long, and I was sure a twelve point would end up making a mess.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 984 Threads: 6
Reputation:
12
Location: Scottish Borders
I've always used a 12 point for this because it has a thinner wall. A six point won't fit inside the hub flange.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,978 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
I was taught that shearing the split pin was a last resort to be avoided if possible and to re-use the pin was only acceptable as a last resort (see above) or in the absence of a handy nail which had been pressed into service by the lack of a suitable punch.
Did someone mention the circular argument conundrum?
My coat’s on that very nail
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 209 Threads: 1
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Despite Bob Culver's obvious scorn of we "mechanics", this mechanic can report of no damage to stub axle threads in the last two or three hundred king pin fittings.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,643 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
There’s no substitute for experience!