Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Personally I wouldn't strap a car with wire wheels down via the wheels. Doesn't matter what it is.
I always go to the axles. Strap around the diff on the rear, and the front axle under the king pins.
But as a 7 is a dainty machine, don't go mad. They need to be tight, nor so tight that the bend metal.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 331 Threads: 51
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Location: East Sussex Coast
Thanks Hedd. Which straps should I but for that and how many please?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
The biggest loading will be on the rear fastenings as they will be the ones that prevent the load moving forwards under emergency braking. Use ratchet load binders and secure them to parts of the car that are inspiring.
With any load carried, belt and braces is a good philosophy. If it can move, it will.
An insecure load is a dangerous thing.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 331 Threads: 51
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Location: East Sussex Coast
Charles, Reckers, Thank you, which style of strap would you suggest?
Peter
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,978 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
I use the type in your first picture. Don't over tighten, it's amazing how much force you can apply with ratchet tensioners.
ALWAYS,ALWAYS,ALWAYS stop after the first half-mile and check the tension on all your straps.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 738 Threads: 13
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High Folks,
I am afraid that I use a completely different approach.
I just use two straps and the winch strap to hold my car onto its trailer.
I pass the ratchet straps from side to side through the wheels so only the bottom of the tyre is held down.
The front straps pull the wheel against the tyre stop and the back straps pull slightly backwards
I pass the front strap under the trailer frame to help take to load from the catch pin on the tilt mechanism.
My trailer is a small tilt trailer that weighs in at 220 Kg unbraked.
It lives on its side in the garage against the wall held up with a chain tackle and safety rope
Car weighs 470 Kg so totally within the unbraked limit of 750 KG
The method I use does not pull the wheels out of line and allows the cars supension to do its thing.
I never bother to put the handbrake on or leave the car in gear when on the trailer.
I have been using this trailer and method of holding down since 2012 with no problems.
Often on 160 mile trips.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 782 Threads: 26
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
Just to re-iterate: you can do an awful lot of damage with a ratchet strap.
It would be fairly easy, I think, to bend a back axle tube.
You need only to make sure the car cannot move (much), not to bind it rigidly to make it as if it were part of the trailer.
I usually use tied-on ropes - which should guarantee that you stop and check periodically, and friction type luggage straps - the rope will provide the strength, the luggage straps - that I have used on various loads for many years - provide quick location without over-stressing components.
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