More teething troubles with Ruby…..

[Denis Sweeney]

Never been really convinced with the timing on Ruby so a friend with a timing gun popped round to check, all went well and the timing was not that far adrift. However with the gun we discovered the timing was not advancing at high revs and so stripped the distributor to check out the weights and these were stuck so with these sorted and the timing gun showing the timing was advancing with the higher revs it was time I went to take for a road test.
Pulled off the drive and parked up on the side of the road, handbrake on as normal and then when ready, went to pull away, released handbrake but all four wheels remained locked on!!!
Could not move her.
Have never experienced anything like this before, strange it should happen so suddenly and especially as I have been pretty satisfied with the brakes of late.
Jacked up the car front and back and this confirmed all wheels were locked.
As I had changed the brakes to semi girling type, I was able to back off all the adjusters so the wheels could turn and I was able to get back into the garage. 
On inspection the foot brake was solid and could not be depressed any further, the hand brake could be released but this did not release the wheels, the cross tube and all levers were locked and could not be moved forward or back.
Ruby is now up on axle stands and I have applied penetrating oil to all moving components. On checking the brake rod from the pedal, I noted that the wing nut adjuster was not sitting into its groove but rotated so it was sitting way out of position, with a bit of persuasion it sprung back into the groove and the brakes then appeared to be released!!
Not sure how the wing nut sprung out of its groove, and I have not gone back under her to reset the brakes, but before I do if there any comments or suggestions as to what, how, this may have occurred it would be much appreciated.
Cheers Denis S

[Reckless Rat]

There should be a spring and an adjuster nut on the brake rod that bears on the other side of the lever where the wing nut sits. This spring should be adjusted so that the wing nut cannot jump out of its groove, once the brake adjustment has been set. The tension is set using the adjuster nut. Hope that helps Dennis.

Library photo:

[John Cornforth]

Hi Denis

i suspect you pulled the handbrake on by an extra notch on that occasion, and it was just far enough to dislodge the wing nut adjuster and make it ride up onto the outside of the actuating lever thereby locking up the whole mechanism.

With the spring keeping things in place (as shown by Reckless), applying the handbrake normally moves the rod forwards and you will see the foot pedal drop down at the same time.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

I don't think this is the case here, but some Seven brakes can in a very odd way.

Having been applied first thing - reversing down the drive - they can lock on, and only be relased by driving backwards.

After that, everything is (usually) fine.

[David Stepney]

I don't think this is the case here, but some Seven brakes can in a very odd way.

Having been applied first thing - reversing down the drive - they can lock on, and only be relased by driving backwards.

After that, everything is (usually) fine.

I have a similar problem occasionally with my RP's brakes, especially if the linings are new.  Indeed, this morning, when I reversed the Seven out of the garage, the one front wheel locked on as I was turning. Going forward it came off and the brakes worked fine afterwards. The last time I had the front brakes to bits, I noticed a certain amount of 'rock' in the cam bushes, so I suspect this may be causing the problem. A job for the spring, perhaps.

[Denis Sweeney]

Thanks for the comments and the photo monsieur le rat, this looks pretty much how Ruby is currently set up.
Haven’t got under her again to have a look again, this may be a silly question but what is the governing factor in fixing the tension on the wing nut? I take it that is to the point where the lever on the cross tube starts to rotate??
It is a long time ago that I installed these parts, all new at that time, I remember the original brake rod was distorted and so replaced it.
Also, is the pin that the brake rod passes through at the brake cross tube lever threaded? Though if were, not sure how you would tighten that with the clevis at the brake lever end??
But if it isn’t threaded are we just relying on the brass wing nut to hold the brake rod?
Cheers and thanks again to all

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Yes, you are relying on the brass nut.

I think I have a standard nut behind mine, just "in case".

[Reckless Rat]

That's what the spring and nut are for, to 'bind' the wing nut once adjusted. Run the nut up until the spring tension is sufficient to stop the wing nut from rotating.

[Denis Sweeney]

Had thought of that Simon, thanks may do the same.
Reckless, thanks had not appreciated that, probably why it moved!!!
Hopefully will get back under Ruby this week to get things sorted…….and hopefully get out check the timing’s ok

[John Cornforth]

Hi again

The pin that the brake rod passes through has a plain clearance hole. The brass adjuster wingnut should have a "scalloped" end to discourage it from turning after adjustment. When you do deliberately adjust it, the spring will make it naturally settle in half turn steps.