Refurbishing distributor caps

[David.H]

WD =Water Dispersant. Does what it says on the tin! Not a cure all or long term solution. It was the friend of early mini and 1100's in the rain on the motorway!

[andrew34ruby]

I avoid WD40 like the plague on ignition systems. I was told that it eventually becomes hygroscopic and together with dust this makes for perpetual problems...

Couldn't agree more, Duncan. In the long term, the last thing you need near an ignition system but, it seems, others know better so you pays your money and you takes your choice

Steve

Steve, in the 80s and 90s over 20 years as an AA patrol I found that WD40 was very useful with dizzy caps and in particular the poor HT leads that people had fitted. Damp foggy weather needed something to deal with the damp ignition systems, especially when cars were parked with engines up against a damp hedge or bush. 
Removing leads and drying in hot air from the van heater could get engines started, but they'd be as bad after a few days. Drenching leads in WD meant they were ok for 12 months. Never known WD to become hygroscopic.

[Duncan Grimmond]

Water DISPERSANT not water destroyer. Where does the water go if it is dispersed? I have asked this question many times and not had an answer. I have one though...Bl**dy everywhere!
It may work as a temporary measure but how many people then take the trouble to dismantle the system and de-grease and dehydrate the components? And then replace leads with tiny fissures in the insulation...

[andrew34ruby]

Water DISPERSANT not water destroyer. Where does the water go if it is dispersed? I have asked this question many times and not had an answer. I have one though...Bl**dy everywhere!
It may work as a temporary measure but how many people then take the trouble to dismantle the system and de-grease and dehydrate the components? And then replace leads with tiny fissures in the insulation...

Duncan, it works, honest. Products like WD40, and deb Duck oil, displace the water and the water sits on top as globules. I guess the globules then drop off. There seems to be no need to dismantle and dehydrate the components. Porous insulation doesn't insulate when wet, it does insulate when all the porosity and fissures and filled with a water dispersing oil.

As for temporary, well if you spray enough on it seems to last for a few years, and to spray again every couple of years is easy enough.

It has saved the planet from producing an awful lot of replacement HT leads, and landfill from taking all the old ones.

I wouldn't use it on my seven leads, quality HT leads last a long time anyway, but for restoring dizzy caps yes. Take an old dizzy cap and clean it carefully with fine abrasive paper, dust it, spray generously with Duck Oil and leave it to dry. It works. I have even tried without even wiping water from inside a dizzy cap. Visible condensation inside the cap and failing to start.  Normally I would dry it then spray, but I tried (as an experiment) to not wipe, just a generous spray, shake it dry, and engine started straight away.

Maybe you have always steered away from these products, so have never discovered that they work.

[Duncan Grimmond]

I used to use it until I was deterred by an RAC man who opened the boot of my Mum's Hillman Imp and showed me the firework display on a dark night!. The previous owner had liberally doused the system with WD 40 and it had gathered so much dust and fluff that it looked like an example of St Elmo's fire. No wonder all the spark was leaking away before it got to a plug. Wiped off, dried out and it got me home. Replaced all leads and caps.
I've never used it on ignition systems since. We all have our prejudices!

[Duncan Grimmond]

Here is a link to a site where people ask the same question about WD40

https://www.quora.com/Why-do-some-people...t-opposite

[Graham Barker]

Not sure whether distributor caps are bakelite. If they are then you could use a tip from an old Austin enthusiast for refurbishing bakelite car fittings:
Soak in kerosene for 24 hours. Rub off kerosene from the surface allowing kerosene to remain in the bakelite pores. Then polish with auto polish.
Cheers 
Graham.

[Steve Jones]

Not sure whether distributor caps are bakelite. 

Oops!! Remember that Bakelte contains asbestos so don't grind it and, if you follow the regulations to the letter, it's illegal to sell it. Don't think that distributor caps are Bakelite, though, but I've an original Lucas/Austin one that would need testing to prove one way or the other.

Steve

[Parazine]

Whatever the caps are made of today, it's not a patch on the original material. Modern, black caps and rotor arms are very suspect in cases of misfiring. I'm working through my stock of old, used items.
I believe the red rotor arms commissioned by "The Distributor Doctor" have a longer life.....

[Ian Burton]

Somewhat belatedly from your query. I have found using "beard"oil works well, giving a good sheen to distributor cap and other bakelite type fittings that go dull. ( I have a beard!)