Engine to frame clearance issue

[AustinWood]

That appears to be an early coil engine, 1929 or 30.
The sump fitted looks like an Alan Raeburn alloy sump. This is much thicker than the pressed tin Austin Sump.
The gasket is also very thick.
We have a similar sump.
I don't use a gasket. Instead I used Threebond 1184. This sticks very tightly and improves the rigidity of the crankcase
The sump did foul the chassis, but is easily relieved by filing the edge to give clearance. It's still a tight fit and the engine has to be raised slightly to remove the sump.
Also the front bolt for the internal gauze filter stopped the sump sealing to the crankcase. Using no washer on the bolt was sufficient to give clearance (just). The thick gasket you have probably avoids that problem but aggravates the other.


   

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I've just noticed that the sump bolts have been replaced with studs. That will obstruct sump removal without raising the engine.

[Ian Dunford]

Sump studs are generally not a good idea.

[Steve Bryant]

Thank you all for your comments. I'll do my best to answer them here in this one reply.

TONY PRESS : Engine number M 79675 Chassis 87642 (not stamped on frame) gearbox 58688

AUSTIN IN THE SHED: The chassis is the one that came with the car as bought many years ago.  The car is a Australian  Chummy based on a chassis / scuttle unit  sent to Oz in June 1929 ( see pic of letter), bodied by Properts of Brisbane. The engine in it when I got the car  is a later rubber mounted variant of about 1933 vintage I think. The frame was checked for straightness and was OK. This was the first time  the correct period engine has been reunited with the chassis.

HOWARD WRIGHT: No I checked and mine are slightly thicker than 13/16".

Simon: Thank you for the information.

MIKE COSTIGAN: Thank you for the photo..very helpful.

PARAZINE : Quite possibly. My sump has been modified with studs, reinforcing plate and long nuts so I don't want to modify the sump at all.

FLYWHEEL: I'm probably going to modify the frame lip.

JONE: The brass studs were because I had no steel round stock when I made them.

HEDD JONES : Thank you for the photo showing the differences.

AUSTIN WOOD: Yes early coil engine. Sump is standard pressed steel with silicone gasket. The studs and nuts are to make sump removal easier and to save the threads in the crank case.

IAN DUNFORD : I'll have to see how this works out.

Cheers,
Stephen

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Here is a couple of pics to add some further information to this thread. The engine that came with the car when I bought it is shown sitting behind the new on in the pic. The letter was the start of a long process to find out information. I didn't think it was that long ago!
Stephen

[Steve Bryant]

Well, after much thought and study, I have decided to alter the inner rail flange to match the nose piece shape where it is riveted  to the rail. Think of it as a factory update .    Thank you all for your take on this as it all helps.
Cheers.
Stephen

[Tony Press]

I find it surprising that BL Heritage had no record of Properts Motor Body Company Ltd. of Newtown Sydney as an Austin Seven body builder.
They built Sports, Chummy, Roadster and Saloon bodies in the 20's, later going on to build Caravans, Kitchen Scales etcetera. They still are in business selling imported scales.

Your (non-original?) sump appears to have a very deep flange and a very thick gasket instead of the thin cork gasket originally fitted. 

I do not like the stud fixing- the original 1/4" Whitworth tall head bolts with oval washers work well. You will have to take the engine out to drop the sump.

The engine looks very good so best of luck with the car.

[flywheel1935]

I struggle with the concept of butchering a $1000 chassis for a $20 sump pan, but its your car !!!!!

[squeak]

fettling is sensible adjustment not butchering. I do like the thick metal spacer around the sump perimeter, good sumps are scarcer than chassis round my place.

[Steve Bryant]

Tony,
the sump is a standard pressed tin  item. The studs and nuts  are an effort the save the threads in the crankcase. A silicone gasket from Jamie is used and the thick metal surround is employed to keep the mating surface flat.
           

As for BL heritage not knowing about Properts was  a bit odd I thought. Anyway thanks for the encouragement
Stephen

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Flywheel : There is no butchery here just adjusting a component to allow for things to go together without stress
Stephen

[goodwoodweirdo]

Hi Steve,

Nice idea, did you make the sump metal frame or buy it ?

thanks Matt

[Steve Bryant]

Hi Matt, I made the sump metal frame, the studs and the nuts.
Stephen