sealants recommended on here

[Terrytuned]

The joint where you may need 2 gaskets or none or to reface to get the correct gear clearance is the dynamo housing to crankcase/nose piece. Terry.

[JonE]

All very interesting. Chris - which are you saying are the important ones - head gasket because of the effect on compression volumes? Or are there others?
Re. John's point, is there any reason why one couldn't use the 1215 too in place of the 5660?

His practical procedure notes there also brings the question about application for things like the block-crankcase joint with 1215. Smear on with finger liberally, to within a few mm of all edges, (as per the copper silicon on head gasket sides)? Or just put on as long beads for the compression to do the spreading work?

[JonE]

Threebond1215 seems to have the widest price differentials known to man. For info, Demon Tweeks and JJCRaceRally (seem to same company?) on ebay now have back in stock at 15 quid delivered for the larger 250ml size.

[Steve kay]

Following the currently unquotable Terry’s comment, what is the advise for this? Take it off and put another gasket on? No gasket but whichever sealant gets the most votes? I did put Dowty washers on, which had no effect whatsoever on the oil seepage, or maybe cascades.

[JonE]

I'm soon to attempt to do a threebond 1215 block joint but nervous as to what might happen if I need to backtrack for something being missed, or falling out. Is it worth still flatting off the crankcase top a little on a plate glass (accepting what some say about it soon warping again, and becoming weaker as it loses any material)
I'm presently thinking that it will go on like copper silicone when doing the head gasket joint - but have no real clue about how to apply.
And are there any things to watch out for, about where it will squish and where thus needs to be assessed and cleaned up after it gets tightened down?

[Howard Wright]

I'm soon to attempt to do a threebond 1215 block joint but nervous as to what might happen if I need to backtrack for something being missed, or falling out. Is it worth still flatting off the crankcase top a little on a plate glass (accepting what some say about it soon warping again, and becoming weaker as it loses any material)
I'm presently thinking that it will go on like copper silicone when doing the head gasket joint - but have no real clue about how to apply.
And are there any things to watch out for, about where it will squish and where thus needs to be assessed and cleaned up after it gets tightened down?

Hi Jon

Are you talking about the block to crankcase joint?  If so I’m a firm advocate of The Seven Workshop silicon gasket.  Applied dry it’s been oil tight on two engines I’ve built with no joint preparation apart from a good clean.

Cheers

Howard

[Ruairidh Dunford]

+1 on that Howard.

[Parazine]

Another +1. Correctly installed, they're very good.

[David Stepney]

Perhaps I am rather conservative, but, when I put my engine back together now some two years and 10,000 miles ago I used:-
For the block to crankcase joint, a standard paper gasket with a thin smear of proprietary black silicon sealant both sides
For the Cylinder head, a new 'old stock' copper/asbestos gasket smeared with copper slip both sides.
The manifold gasket was fitted 'dry'
The paper sump gasket was liberally smeared with grease before fitting.
Everything else was fitted using the appropriate paper gaskets smeared with blue Hylomar.

Admittedly, I still have a slight leak from the near side rear corner of the engine, but I suspect this is from the tappet cover. The engine uses oil at about 500 miles per pint.

As many may have noticed, my car is well used and does about 5000 miles a year and has been the daily driver on occasions (including presently) and the car has proved to be entirely trouble free.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Your experience is proof that more ways than one exist to skin a cat, long may that continue.