Joined: Apr 2021 Posts: 29 Threads: 3
Reputation:
0
Location: Turin, Italy
First of all, I apologize if the subject has been discussed before. I tried a search but did not found...
The chassis of the Seven I am restoring is assembled with both bolts and rivets.
Was the chassis assembled with rivets and someone replaced some of them with bolts? Or was it assembled with both bolts and rivets? If so, where bolts and where rivets?
Is there any source to found a detailed answer?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
Reputation:
10
Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I can't direct you to a detailed answer, but as far as I know they were all assembled using rivets in the factory. If that has been changed I see no reason why properly fitting (imperial size) short HT bolts and nuts with a decent locking system should not be substituted.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Agree with Robert, I'm pretty sure Austin used rivets throughout but no reason why suitable bolts can't be substituted.
It can be quite a job forming rivets in situ especially the larger sizes.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
Reputation:
16
Car type:
This must come up for those swapping torque tube mounts on sports specials. Do 3/8" bolts fit the large rivet points, or 5.16"? And what locking mechanism is preferable in such use of imperial bolts?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
Reputation:
7
Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
13-11-2021, 06:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 13-11-2021, 06:35 PM by Hedd_Jones.)
This has come up recently elsewhere. The chassis were rivetted together. The rivets are basically mild steel.
Substituting HT bolts, even in clearance holes is probably a betterment, given the improved clamping possible with the HT bolts, vs the mild steel rivets.
Personally I've used both imperial and metric button heads in the past. Use whatever locking mechanisms you like. I cut flush and put some evil pop marks in them.
Ive just been under my saloon chassis, assembled some 25 years ago with some bolts where repairs were made. No problems to be seen
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
Reputation:
10
Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
Just looked under my Ulsteroid, which has a shortened and modified late Ruby chassis. I found self-locking nuts and bolts in places, and they have stayed firm through nearly 20 years of fairly hard and some competitive motoring.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
Has it ever been absolutely confirmed that original rivets were placed hot? If only mild steel cold rivetting would seem practical if a bit slow. To duplicate rivets substitute bolts should really be a force fit in reamed holes but now hard to get bolts with base of thread sufficently thick.
On hobby cars regular checkng and tightening no problem.
