How far, is too far gone.......??

[Denis Sweeney]

Having completed the restoration of my 36 Ruby which is an early type, I feel a need to carry on fettling and tinkering.
Another 7 is out of the question, space and wife will not allow!!
It occurs to me that the only part of Ruby I did not restore myself was the restore and rebuild the engine, this was carried out by a retired marine engineer neighbour who had numerous sevens in his early life and had rebuilt them an many occasions and was a very good engineer. 
I also had the rebuilding wheels, re-forging axle eyes, re-coating the steering wheel and re-chroming bright work sub'd out as I simply did not have the means to carry out this work.
And so I am looking to build a spare engine.
Ruby came with a numerous assortment of spares which included 3 engines, all of which were dismantled, 2 of which are 3 bearing and one 2 bearing.
So as Ruby is a 2 bearing that is what I would like to rebuild as a spare.
However the only 2 bearing cranckase I have has suffered a major catastrophe in its previous life and a previous owner has had a large number of aluminium weld "repairs" carried out.
I can see one of the welds is actually cracked and the crack extends below the weld into the base metal.
I think I know what the response will be but assuming these welds can be cleaned up and reworked what other issues should I be wary of, alignment for example??
There is a broken stud at the front of the case where the front bearing is located and there is some damage to the rear lip and I am sure studs will need replacing.
I attach a word doc with some pics of the busted casing, is this simply too far gone??
Denis S

[Chris KC]

Allow me...

  Z1.JPG (Size: 91.83 KB / Downloads: 504)
  z2.JPG (Size: 102.28 KB / Downloads: 501)
  z3.JPG (Size: 82.42 KB / Downloads: 501)
  z4.JPG (Size: 76.72 KB / Downloads: 502)

---

I guess these are the basic issues:
1. Strength - anybody's guess - but if the welds are already failing...
2. Geometry - equally hard to assess whether important distortion has taken place, you might not know till you try and run it.
3. Cosmetics - you might be able to dress the welds and make it prettier but it's never going to be lovely.
4. Money. It costs a lot these days to build up a good engine. Given the risks above why wouldn't you start with the best parts you can get your hands on?

Rubies also had 3-bearing engines, why not just rebuild one of those? That would be my choice.
If hell-bent on a 2-bearing, seek out a better casing, they are not hard to come by.

And keep this one in the you-never-know pile. I have a scrap case and keep on finding uses for it.

[JonE]

I'm at the same stage as you, finding it an excellent learning experience taking on a first build. Thoughts...
1. decent 2 bearing crankcases are still moderately available and comparatively cheap, so consider the costs of fettling yours in relation to just finding a better one
2. if your three bearing engine is a later one that has good c/case, rods and shell bearings, it could be worth doing that one properly as it will reduce the hassles of white metalling.... and give you a good contrast between your two engines.

[Mike Costigan]

That looks like the result of a broken crank. I don't think I'd be too concerned about the damage and repairs on the off-side - I doubt if that's caused any significant distortion and if the welds are failing a liquid metal repair will make it oil-tight. However the damage on the camshaft side would give me cause for concern - I can well believe there will be critical distortion there. Unless that proves to be the original case for the car I would recommend sourcing a better replacement - or, as others have suggested, doing one of the three-bearing cases. They may not be original spec for the car, but a well-built three-bearing engine is a delight.

[Martin Prior]

I'm a great believer in everything being salvageable, but on this on I'd say that there are plenty of sound crankcases around for very little money and I'd find one without the potential issues that this one has. I've built two adequate working engines from "scrap" in the last few years for about £120 - £140 each.

[Bob Culver]

The crack above the fuel pump is common . You will know where to look on a replacement. Being two bearing alignmernt is not a problem, except for the camshaft  tunnels. The top deck has to be flat. Such extensive repairs a conversation point. If the labour is yours there is little to be lost but yet more welding would add considerable expense. The main thing is to avoid the causes of such damage ie cracked crank, little end defects. if seeking a replacement remeber there are high and low chassis crankcases, and some without rubber mounts.
Successful rebuild of a 3 bearing requires vastly more skill and patience than a 2 brg. Alignment of the centre bearing is very cahallenging. (3 brg cases have been adapted for 2).

[Reckless Rat]

The front bearing lip also looks damaged...

[Hedd_Jones]

A low frame 2 bearing crankcase is simply found at not a lot of money. Thats one is farm trucked and needs making into beer cans and the odd razor blade

[Nigel Ricardo]

I had 2 off 3 bearing crankcases with the centre main removed by Vince Leek, but the last one he did for me was the last one he is doing, maybe someone else is doing it though.

[Chris KC]

Rather have a 3-bearing any day.