oils and grease

[Vancevr]

i was going to do a full greasing and oiling but i was wondering what kinds of oil and greases do you seveners recommend? also that i can get here in the U.S . Should I get the stuff that is in the hand book and how much. newer would be better.

[Bob Culver]

Assuming you do not have some wild racer. 
All lubricants, except possibly some "classic" products, are vastly superior to anything  used originally. Viscosity was largely determined by consideration of noise, consumprion and leakage.  Hubs now require little more than the races to be packed on assembly. Moly greases help the delicate kingpins and spring shackles. No filter and all cars burn oil, so the cheapest oil fine. Even in the 1960s API SD was about the best available, and all now far beyond that. Note thet the cross over temp of multigardes is low so can be excessively thick and dragging for most running. Diffs and geabox do not need to be full to reduce leakage. Many go to lengths to avoid a full modern readily available EP oil in the back axle but most cars were run with this  through the 50s to 70s with no positively identified problem as far as I can ascertain. A modern gear oil adequate and many claim better but not easy to acquire beyond SAE 90 (gear scale).  With all modern seals, 90 OK.

[David Stepney]

Grease points: A good quality lithium or graphite grease. (I use graphited grease, but that is simply what I have in stock)
Engine: Good Quality 10w/40: Change every 2500 miles
Gearbox: Good quality 20w/50; Change every 5000 miles
Rear Axle and Steering box: Straight (i.e. not EP) SAE 140: Change rear axle oil every 5000 miles.
Oil can bits and pieces (drag link, cross shaft, radius arm cups etc.) 10w/40.

Others may recommend different lubricants, but I find that this works well for me. Provided everything is well oiled and levels are topped up, you should be fine.

Bob is correct about the hub bearings. Pack with grease upon assembly and leave well alone.

[John Mason]

Sevens will run well on modern multi grade oils but if the car is new to you be careful about detergent oils. If the engine has previously used straight non detergent oil the sump and oil ways may well have oil sludge in them. Clean everything out well before re filling with the modern detergent oil. I hope this does not put you off the modern stuff. It is well worth the clean up in order to use

John Mason.

[Dennis Nicholas]

Ditto for use of modern synthetic multigrade 10/40 in a fully cleaned out engine (plugs out and galleries well cleaned).
An additive originated in USA (formerly called PROLONG) and now in UK known as SYNIONIC is an Anti Friction Metal Treatment (AFMT) gives far less friction/wear.  Claims supported by an independent international oil industry trusted lab and also by the British well regarded independent MIRA (Motor industry research association).
Add it to any oil you use.  They also do a grease with it ready mixed....excellent for king pins and any other grease points.

Dennis

[Bob Culver]

The VW Beetle, at least until 1970, had no oil filter and capacity much as Seven and 3,000 mile changes. It did not have forgiving white metal bearings.
Modern gearbox and diff oils barely age. Pour through an engine oil  filter and reuse.

[Tony Press]

Penrite Oil Australia:

https://penriteoil.com.au/

they have a USA stockist: 

https://restorationstuff.com/

[Jeff Taylor]

Vancevr,

Although aimed at American owners of 1936 to 1950 MG TA, TB and TC's, you may find Doug Pelton's 'From The Frame Up' catalogue of interest for its stock of British vehicle BSF / Whitworth and BA nuts and bolts, washers, rivets and other small tools and pre-war vehicle restoration sundries. 'From The Frame Up' are based relatively near to you in Mesa, Arizona.

https://fromtheframeup.com

Link to their extensive parts catalogue:

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/095cf0a...1-0001.pdf