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Flywheel nut removal

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Flywheel nut removal
Parazine Online
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Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
#11
10-09-2021, 01:39 PM (This post was last modified: 10-09-2021, 01:47 PM by Parazine.)
(09-09-2021, 08:15 PM)dickie65 Wrote: I stick a rod through a hole in the flywheel and rest it against the bellhousing,then undo with a big ring spanner. no need to drop the sump my way. ( assuming there is a suitable hole in your flywheel )

I usually use this method, with the engine bolted into a test bed made from a cut down Ruby chassis. It's worthwhile examining the crankcase minutely for cracks before you start. I use a 3 foot long, 3/4 drive breaker bar to do the nut up and put my weight on the end of it. (>300ft/lb?)

BTW, it's worthwhile, if you can, to machine out the small end of the tapered hole in the flywheel so it's parallel for about the first 3/16". I've seen cranks digging into the flywheel here and then coming loose on the taper. It's especially a problem on the Phoenix cranks as these are surface hardened - I saw one Phoenix where the small end of the taper had dug in and then broken away in a ring.
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Chris KC Offline
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#12
10-09-2021, 05:36 PM
If Hedd hadn't seen it with his own eyes, I wouldn't believe so. I shudder to think what torque they were putting on it!
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David Stepney Offline
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#13
10-09-2021, 07:57 PM
(10-09-2021, 01:34 PM)John Mason Wrote: I am with with putting an old stud in the hole in the flywheel rim like others have mentioned.  As yet not damaged the crankcase but would if exceptionally tight apply a little heat to the nut. I suppose a purpose made tool fitting between the starter motor fixing holes could be made with teeth that meshed with the ring gear to prevent movement of the flywheel.

John Mason

The Porsche 944 used exactly that sort of tool to lock the flywheel to loosen the flywheel bolts.
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Tony Press Offline
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#14
10-09-2021, 11:13 PM
But the Porsche doesn't have a 90 year old aluminium crankcase with a very flimsy top corner of the flywheel housing unsupported by the gearbox and having a hole to weaken it . 

I would be very careful
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David Stepney Offline
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#15
11-09-2021, 08:57 AM
(10-09-2021, 11:13 PM)Tony Press Wrote: But the Porsche doesn't have a 90 year old aluminium crankcase with a very flimsy top corner of the flywheel housing unsupported by the gearbox and having a hole to weaken it . 

I would be very careful

True, Tony, but the Porsche engine is also made of aluminium.

I agree that one should be very careful, especially when applying large amounts of force to any component, The law of unintended consequences can be quite devastating! Perhaps in the instant case, it might be safer to drill the nut, split it off with a sharp chisel and fit an new nut.
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Dave Mann Offline
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#16
11-09-2021, 09:10 AM
I use a similar system to Roger and can apply plenty of grunt without risk of damage.
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John Mason Offline
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Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
#17
12-09-2021, 12:53 PM
Just thinking out of the box. If for any reason the nut has been put on with a thread locking such as locktight heat will be needed to remove the nut.

John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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Colin Wilks Offline
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#18
13-09-2021, 06:34 PM
Not about undoing the nut, but given what's needed in operation is a really good tight fit between the crank taper and the flywheel, does anyone heat the flywheel prior to fitting it?
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John Mason Offline
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#19
13-09-2021, 08:43 PM
Well never have and never had any problems putting it on cold or with driving and running afterwards .

John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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Chris KC Offline
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#20
13-09-2021, 08:57 PM
Likewise John, a 'good' fit and the nut done up 'tight' works fine for me. There's no need to go crazy.
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