Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Tim, I don't know anyone who rebuilds back axles on a 'professional' basis. I suspect it would be very expensive. Are you a member of a local A7 club? That would be my first port of call. Someone there will be able and willing to appraise and advise.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 104 Threads: 3
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A career opportunity here for some engineer to replace the late Arthur Davies and specialise only in A7 back axles. There must be loads of broken ones in sheds awaiting such.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 986 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
I rebuilt my 1929 back axle with new crown wheel & pinion from David Cochrane. It predated the easy crown wheel adjustment and was a real challenge that I would not wish to repeat.
As David at A7 Components supplies the parts he may know of a rebuilder.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
It sounds like you need to let someone from the A7 fraternity have a look at your car before you do anything.
Exactly how have you ascertained that there is 90° of free play? Where and how have you measured it?. If you can quantify it perhaps someone can see where your problem lies.
90° seems a huge amount of slack - are both rear hubs properly tight and keyways secure?
Joined: Aug 2021 Posts: 8 Threads: 2
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Location: Cheshire England
Car type: Austin 7 AG 1931
Good evening All,
Regarding reckless Rat’s question, I kept the rear wheels still and rotated the prop shaft. This rotated about 90 deg. (By eye only).
I have not looked at the hubs as I thought the key would keep it rotating together. Is this not the case and I need to take the wheels off and check them?
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,110 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Tim
From the propshaft back… there could be play in the UJ, the torque tube bracket might give the impression of play, the pinion bearing also. Then there could be play in the CWP itself, possibly the carrier bearings, the planet gears, the half shaft gears and finally the half shaft to hub taper joint.
If that becomes loose then the key or more likely the key way wears very quickly indeed and will fail before very long.
I think it would be a good idea to remove the wheels and check the half shaft nut. It should be very tight. I use a socket on a 30” breaker bar and heave as much as you can.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
What does the car actually drive like?
Joined: Aug 2021 Posts: 8 Threads: 2
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Location: Cheshire England
Car type: Austin 7 AG 1931
Howard,
Thank you for that. This weekend is all ready booked but I will take the wheels off and have a closer look.
Reckless Rat,
She drive as I would expect. No axel noise, when going round a corner and you goes over bumps she wiggles a little but when she reverses she can be a little jumpy like most old girls!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,402 Threads: 33
Reputation:
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
If it drives OK and there's no noise then all I would do is check that the rear hubs are properly secure, change the diff oil and then leave well alone.