Droopy Ruby Window

[Graham Barker]

The front passenger window on my 1937 Ruby gradually slips down while on the road.  The main spring appears not to be broken.  I am not sure of the condition of the small spring in the canister on the handle.  
Is it likely that the main spring has lost some of its tension over the years?
Is it feasible to take another turn on the main spring to increase its force?
Any comments on a possible solution would be appreciated.

[GCD]

Had the same trouble with my Ruby. Fitting a new spring did not improve things, but fitting new window channel to the sides + top solved the promlem.

[Dave Mann]

        The big visible spring acts as a counterweight and can be real finger trapper if not handled with respect. There are two springs in the housing behind the winder the larger one of which provides the friction to stop the window dropping. Getting the housing off means bending back the securing tabs which usually break off.

[Ilmoro]

Graham,

The cause is almost certainly the small friction spring below the "tabbed" dome. The Mk2 Ruby one is a little different to the one above. See attached photo. You will need to bend back the tabs (which may break) remove the dome, then clean it all up replace the broken spring, grease it up and replace in reverse order. If too many tabs have broken off, the dome can be drilled and bolted, say 4BA or 6BA or similar.

The small springs are unobtainable, as far as I know. But a Morris1000 one or possibly mini or any number of 50s 60s 70s British cars have equivalent springs. I used Morris 1000. Picture of Morris and Austin 7 springs side by side. I bought a complete winder mechanism off ebay and canibalised it.

Ian    

[Graham Barker]

Thanks Ilmoro, Dave and GCD for the suggestions.  The window channels are in reasonable condition.  So, I will try removing the tabbed cover on the handle spindle and see what is going on in there.  The photos look to be particularly helpful.  Thanks for taking the time to find and attach them.
Regards
Graham.

[Dave Wortley]

I replaced the broken spring with a piece of nylon I turned on my lathe. It has been working ok for many years. A tight fit in the housing bore of course.

[Graham Barker]

Hello Ian,
have dismantled the winder cover and found that I have the Mark 2 Ruby spring arrangement as per your photo.  The spring has no bent end so is similar to the Ruby spring that you showed.  I have managed to bend the end of the spring so that it now sits in position on that little hub as shown for the Morris 1000.
But I cannot get the spring and hub back into the cover.  It seems that the spring needs to be wound a little to reduce the coil diameter to fit within the cover.  Did you encounter this when you fitted the Morris 1000 spring?

[Ilmoro]

Graham,

It's a while since I did mine and I can't remember any problem getting the spring back in. I coated the cup with grease, fitted the spring in its grooved spigot and then pulled it into the cup, turning to tighten the spring (against the spigot) at the same time as far as I remember.

Ian

[Graham Barker]

Have struggled for another hour to get the coil spring back into the cup/cover without success.  I think I have distorted the spring coil shape when bending the end and then further distortion trying to force the coil in.
Have now bought a used window mechanism from our Vintage Austin club (only $20 or £10) and will see if that will operate correctly.
Graham,

[Ilmoro]

Graham,

I suspect you may be correct and the spring is distorted. I am fairly sure that when wound into tension, the spring is just about flush with the outside of the 2 flanges. I have been through my photos and can't find anything more helpful. There is this article (Thanks Esses A7 club) but I guess it tells you nothing you have not already discovered. https://ea7c.org/window-winder-repair/