Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Today I took the Ruby out for a run with my son driving. When applying the brakes at the junction at the bottom of the road there was a lot of vibration accompanied with a great deal of noise coming from the front near side brakes. It sounded like metal to metal but I know the linings are good. As yet I have not had the drums off to examine things but does anybody have ideas as to what maybe at fault. I had this happen a few months ago and stripped everything down and really didn’t find anything wrong.(I obviously didn’t look well enough) They were reassembled and everything was fine. That is until today. (have possibly only done around 50 miles since then. Any ideas or suggestions greatly received.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,442 Threads: 231
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Location: Scotchland
John,
I have experienced snatching of the brakes due to dust in the drums, they making a knocking sound.
What type of linings have you fitted?
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Thank you for the input Ruairidh. With reference to the linings to be honest I don’t know I fitted them some years ago. They appear to be a hard lining. They may have come from John Barlow as the friend who helped me fit them to the shoes is a good friend of John. This friend also helped me renew the worn ends of the shoes with steel plates.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
Noise can be caused by a pivot pin not being tight in the backplate.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,567 Threads: 20
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Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
My car has fits of having noisy and sometimes juddering brakes too. Usually when the brakes are cold. I find that the cure is to remove the brake drums, clean out any dust and lightly roughen the brake linings.That usually cures the problem, at least for a while. i can usually just about manage to make them stay quiet between major services (at 2500 miles).
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 50 Threads: 4
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As a young driver in 1963, similar symptoms in my 1937 Morris 8/40 revealed a worn and dry outer wheel bearing.
Russell.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
15-06-2021, 05:02 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-06-2021, 05:03 PM by John Mason.)
An update. I have now stripped down the front near side hub and brake and found the following :-
1. The brake shoes have plenty of meat still left on them although signs of not all brake serfaces making contact with the drum. They are also glazed in places.
2. The brake cam although a nice fit in the bush and turns freely has end float allowing the brake shoes to move laterally making the distance between brake shoe and back plate vary up to about 3/16ths. Is this normal and if not can it be shimmed with a suitable washer.
Any advice regarding this will be most appreciated.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Further update,
1. Brake shoe lining glazing on both shoes has been remove with light rasping.
2. Brake cam cleaned re greased and correctly replaced in the back plate bush. This removed all end play. (I found out when stripping down that the cotter pin was not in correctly which was the cause of the end play.). Now all back together awaiting test drive.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
