Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
Reputation:
1
I was wondering just how important a sevens rear inner arches are to the rigidity and strength of the car, on my ruby i have no metal left under the rear window where the arch meets the body however bellow that all is sound, I was wondering about the feasibility of cutting out the rot, taking it back to bare steel and temporarily making fiberglass repair sections, yes i know its bodge however i do use my old cars very regularly and I'm extraordinarily poor at welding, so its either a local snooty classic car garage taking the mick with prices and insisting on replacing the entire inner arch because of their "reputation" and refuse to just but weld in fresh steel (they're usual dealing with jaguar xk150s and the likes) or just repair myself with fiberglass for a few months while finding someone willing to do it reasonably (no MOT grade welding) look forward to your suggestions!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,668 Threads: 24
Reputation:
15
Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Can you take a photograph of the are in question Jake? Also where in the world are you? It may be that if it’s a simple patching job, one of us may be able to help out.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 508 Threads: 129
Reputation:
2
Location: Staffordshire
Car type: Ruby mk 2
I did have a similar problem welding some years ago.
Took some advice from ex- garage owner
Replaced some parts of my mig and soured higher quality gas.
With a little patience you can achieve a good finish.
Inner arches won’t be seen anyway .
Good luck
Tim
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
Reputation:
1
I'm in tropical Wolverhampton, and unfortunately I cant get a photo I'm afraid as the camera on my phone is broken, its just where the inner wing meets the body beneath both rear side windows.
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
Reputation:
1
28-05-2021, 06:13 PM
(This post was last modified: 28-05-2021, 06:16 PM by 12jslater.)
when i say I'm bad at welding, i just blow holes through 1mm steel, cant even put a dab of weld down, i just burn straight through it, hence my issue, I've sat down and tried for hours to get it right and i can never get past that stage, i try turning the welder down by little increments and i just end up getting it so low it wont even weld.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 725 Threads: 38
Reputation:
12
Location: Herefordshire
I would definitely NOT cut out any metal, however rotten, without immediately welding in a new piece. Personally, I much prefer to patch and plate, rather than replace entire sections.
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
Reputation:
1
the metal in question is already thin/ not there, cutting would just be to make the hole rectangular so it could easily be repaired, and the melder in question is indeed a mig welder, see told you im bad, give me a vintage watch, i rebuild and service, give me a vintage radio, the same, but with welding i am 100% useless haha, really isnt for me
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,036 Threads: 54
Reputation:
5
Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
28-05-2021, 08:30 PM
(This post was last modified: 28-05-2021, 08:48 PM by andrew34ruby.)
Fibreglass matt and resin are damned expensive these days. Could you find a small back-street garage that would weld it for you? Or maybe someone mobile? Or could you do a permanent job with small nuts and bolts?
I learned to weld with oxy-acetylene when I was 19, it was easy and i was good at it after a few weeks. Mig is more tricky and I'm still improving after 36 years of miging.