Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 622 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
There is also the remote possibility that the exhaust system is partially blocked, which will build up back pressure.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
The symptoms you describe also fit with a condenser failing under stress, but then starting to work again after a bit of a lie down.
See Parazine's entry in the recent thread about testing condensers "I guess that the capacitor was breaking down under voltage stress, becoming progressively short or open circuit after a few minutes running. After not being used for a bit, it "healed" and became operational again."
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,987 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
Well worn distributors can behave like this. Do you have access to a spare or could you borrow a known reliable one?
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I've tried two new condensers, one is a know good one from my Morris 8 that I sold not a week ago, so that's definitely good, and the distributor is very unworn, it's in marvelous condition, even if it was worn surely that wouldn't cause the engine to start sweet as a nut but then die off?
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Location: North Yorkshire
My experience would point to the distributor. I have fitted 'good' unworn distributors with new points and condenser and had problems. It is not unusual for there to be an electrical short within the distributor, often around the little post that the points pivot on. I would try another distributor.
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
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I doubt it's a short as I have a nice fat blue spark both before the engine runs and after it dies, jumps maybe a 3/8 gap from the end of an ht lead to the block.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Have you tried disconnecting the fuel pipe to the carb and plugging the end to stop leaks then fit a small say 1/2 pint of petrol temporary take to the carb and see if it will run for longer. If this works you know it’s a fuel problem but further back down the line from the carb. If it is no better at least you know the pump is ok. You say you get a good spark from the plugs so it appears the ignition is ok. That only leaves fuel and if you have done the test I have already suggested the carb OR a mechanical problem but you seem convinced compression is there which suggest valves and rings are ok. My bet is it’s a fuel problem not enough or too much. You say your plugs are wet so that’s makes me think too much.
If I was you I would start afresh and re check everything I have done we are all prone to sometimes missing the obvious.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 226 Threads: 18
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Location: Kennet Valley
Car type: 1932/3 AH tourer
(26-05-2021, 08:08 AM)John Cornforth Wrote: Hi
There is also the remote possibility that the exhaust system is partially blocked, which will build up back pressure.
I'm with John on this - it sounds like the exhaust might, somehow, have become (completely?) blocked, and I base that upon a very embarrassing identical fault wherein I checked everything but the exhaust... Worth checking I'd say.
True satisfaction is the delayed fulfilment of ancient wish