Ruby 1938 shock absorbers

[andrew767767]

Hi I am new to owning a Ruby 1938 I appear to have a problem with the n/s rear shock absorber.  Tried to find info on the forum also I have checked through the parts list with the illustrations of parts.  The problem is its too easy to push down the car on that side compared to the o/s rear.  I found drving today it would sort of dive down on the rear n/s making handling difficult.  Could someone point me to where I could find out how to make an adjustment 

[Ivor Hawkins]

I’m guessing you have tightened the nut on the n/s rear shock absorber to no avail Andrew, which leads me to think of three options, the discs are worn, contaminated with oil or there is something missing!

I would dismantle the shock and check everything is there first! It’s only a five minute job.

Make sure everything goes back in the right order!

[andrew767767]

Thanks Ivor have to say  have not adjusted the nut will try that tomorrow, I have also just found info on the forum that is should be torqued to 12lbs.  Will take apart if no joy hope to get it sorted for drive it day cheers!

[Steve kay]

Dead easy. First thing tomorrow ring up one of our cherished suppliers and order new friction discs. Take off the arms and clean up them up and the brass discs Find two discarded valve springs in a box and cut them to the length that fits them inside the shocker spring. Shortly after the postie arrives, probably on Tuesday, assemble the enhanced rear shocks, fire the machine up and set off into the sunny morning to experience greatly enhanced handling. I learnt this from this very forum some considerable time age. (When I first inspected a pair of rear shocks, one side was marinaded in leaked engine oil and the other side rusted pretty solid.)

[andrew767767]

Thanks Steve very helpful will contact David for the discs it would be nice  not to get in such a cold sweat when the Ruby decides to have some fun teasing me on every bump

[John Cornforth]

Hi Andrew

Working from memory, the nut that sets the damper coil spring tension is threaded onto a stud with a shoulder. Under the nut is a dished washer that locates the spring. If you keep tightening, the nut/washer eventually bears on the shoulder and you can't get any more spring tension. However, in my experience this should be more than enough to give a good damping effect, without resorting to extra springs.

As others have suggested, take it all apart and give it a good clean and inspection. If the spring is rusted and pitted it will have lost some of its strength and should be replaced. I know the other side is OK, but probably best to give it a once over as well.

[AustinWood]

I got new springs from David when I bought discs. They are considerably stronger than the originals.
Adjustment is quite simple. I it's too Bouncy loosen them, if too hard tighten.
The result is good.

[Steve kay]

Quote still doesn’t work in Wales. John points out what I should have mentioned. The point of adding additional springs is to avoid tightening up so much that the springs bind up solid.

[andrew767767]

Thanks everone for your advice will go ahead and order the parts

[Bob Culver]

The car will never handle anything like a modern. On certain spiral waves it will dart off course. Effective s.as. reduce the spring travel and control lurching and so reduce the associated geometric errors and car will handle better. There must be no lost motion in the linkages.

(It is surprising what small factors can have an effect. For decades I drove a Javelin. The front top s.a links were overstressed Silentbloc bushes and quite short lived. Driving the same stretch of straight slow motorway every day I could detect from the steering when 1/16 inch movement had developed.)