my engine does not run well on tickover

[David Stepney]

John, if you search on the forum for “Carburettor Problems”, you should turn up the thread I started on this very point. In it you will find some useful photos that should help.

[Colin Wilks]

John, this is the link to David's post, but for some unknown reason the photos have disappeared. I have no idea why as photos in other posts are still there.
https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/for...s#pid27282

[Robin Oldfield]

John, this is the link to David's post, but for some unknown reason the photos have disappeared. I have no idea why as photos in other posts are still there.
https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/for...s#pid27282

I took a file copy of those pictures.  Body 1 goes with bowl 1, and 2 with 2.


  carb 26va differences.jpg (Size: 3.1 KB / Downloads: 428)

[Ian McGowan]

Thanks for the update John, sorry to hear of your deteriorating vision and good luck sorting the needle valve; I think I would lose the thick ali washer for the first try out.
Take care,
Ian Mc.

[Dennis Nicholas]

how do you get those photos to a viewable size? They are only about 8mm square on my Apple Mac Mini. Saw original thread while catching up on reading after now being able to log in, but photos were missing there as well.
I have a box of old carb bits so would be useful for future sorting out.

Dennis

[Robin Oldfield]

A bigger picture of the 26va carb differences.

   

[Dennis Nicholas]

THANKS have now documented and added to file of information (printed out)

[Graham Barker]

As mentioned in an earlier reply to this post, My Ruby was not maintaining revs on tickover. I had doubts about a suggestion that air leakage around the throttle spindle might be the cause. Yesterday I tried to eliminate this by wrapping a couple of turns of Teflon thread seal tape around the spindle and compressed it into the carb body by refitting the throttle and choke levers. I also put blue-tack over the other end of the spindle. 
Surprisingly, the idle is now a lot steadier allowing me to reduce the idle revs.
Will be interesting to see how long the temporary measures of Teflon tape and blue-tack are effective. 
Cheers 
Graham

[John Mason]

I think I have finally solved the problem of my engine pulsing on tick over and poor running. After fitting  a new aluminium washer of the correct thickness under the needle valve on the carburettor the engine ran better with no flat spot but still sort of pulsed on tick over.  Thinking things over I wondered if the timing may be slightly out so I marked it’s current position with a dab of paint so I could move it back if there was no improvement when moved. On slackening the clamp bolt a little (just enough to move it.) the engine stopped and would not restart. As I had only touched the distributor when it stopped investigation proved the low tension screw although the low tension lead terminal was tight the nut holding it tight to the strip of metal between points and condenser was a little loose. Re tighten and all is well good tick over and running. Engine vibration must have been making a intermittent connection.

Thanks for all the help and advice given.
John Mason.

[Ian McGowan]

Well done John, the old adage is true then, if it seems to be fuel it will be ignition, if it seems to be ignition it will be fuel!!