Clutch repair

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Mine is bandsawed from 18mm birch ply.

I can stand on the spanner end, that is going to be around the 150 ft lbs generally recommended.

[Bob Culver]

If the key has been loose and eventually sheared the hub and axle taper will not be perfect. Topic been extensively covered but it important the axle make contact and preferably heavy contact just inboard of the keyway. Having the taper super tight can lead to difficukty dismantling .If assembled without the split pin can be regularly moderately tightend. Gves indication of any pending trouble.
Ponder carefully before resorting to wholesale lapping. The axle and hub easily ruined. Can lap away a lot of soft hub with little effect on very hard axle. If the axle is drawn too far out means another hub or diff dismantling.

[David.H]

Thanks Bob. The new shaft appears a decent fit into the hub. I am pretty sure the problem was caused by the nut loosening. The key did its job by acting as a shear pin thus avoiding further damage. new Key on the way! There is no hole in this shaft for a split pin, so I have made up a suitable tool to restrain he hub when I really lean on the nut this time! I will use some suitable adhesive on the taper as well....I do NOT intend to take it apart again. I will paint mark the nut to indicate if it eases off at all. Did that on the rally cars to: a. show it had been tightened and b. indicate if it had loosened. Worked for me! Biggest concern is the state of the outer thread on the hub and whether the hub puller will screw on properly and far enough!!

[Bob Culver]

It is a pity this thread is under clutch and will be missed by many with axle problems.
It is easy to damage a puller by threading onto dubious threads, which seem very common.. Someone here recently recounted that they welded a ring collar onto the hub and used a Ford style horseshoe claw puller to remove. For absoulutely obstinate hubs possibly the only remedy. I am very sceptical of use of adhesives.

[David Stepney]

David.
I wouldn’t loctite the taper. You will need to dismantle the rear hub if you want to remove the rear brakes shoes.

[Mark R]

It is possible to remove the shoes without taking the hub off, see the article here, clearly removal of the brake cam would however require the hub to be removed. I made the tool as outlined and was very pleased with not having to take the hub off!

BA7C article here

[David.H]

This car has new Morris Minor hydraulic brakes on modified backplates......with all new shoes/linings and seals I hope they will last many miles before disassembly! What do people think about lacK of split pin?

[Steve kay]

The illustrations for the brake shoe article show front wheels. I have never managed rear shoe change without hub wresting. Do any of our most cherished suppliers actually offer what might be called a spring poker? Or is the suggested technique only applicable to the front?

[Mark R]

I successfully used the tool on rear brakes. It doesn't take long to make and when making it you can't quite believe it won't just break or bend in half but it works a treat.

[David.H]

Bob
yes the thread has drifted, because when it started I thought it would be clutch related! Happily it isn't! I don't know if the thread title can be changed  to  "Failure to proceed. Clutch or Shafts?" 
Perhaps a moderator(?) can do it.
David