18-03-2021, 08:48 PM
No wobbly wheels! With foot on the brake it was just possible to turn over the crank, but a wheel just turned in bottom I think......try again tomorrow ?
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Clutch repair
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19-03-2021, 01:31 AM
(This post was last modified: 19-03-2021, 01:32 AM by David Stepney.)
Sounds suspiciously like one of the rear wheel tapers is worn and the car has been driving on the shaft key, which has now failed. If I am right, then the car wont drive as the shaft is spinning on the rear hub, but there may still be enough friction between the shaft and hub to turn the wheel when it isn't loaded.
How do I know this? Its a long tale....... 
19-03-2021, 10:02 AM
Thanks...this I think/hope is the least worst option!
See my comment above on the Marathon story! The half shaft that sheared was an "unbreakable " racing one capable of handling many more than our 130bhp! What we hadn't realised was that we had bent the axle and had significant negative camber on the back wheels putting a huge load on the shaft/flange....the broken bits had enough contact to make it seem ok,but not to transmit drive. Back to the Seven...?I replaced one broken shaft with a new one when I got the car going....I will now check the other one first...... David
19-03-2021, 06:03 PM
Aha! First thing I find is that the osr retaining nut has loosened, so tomorrow the hub puller will spring into use and I will see what is going on inside the hub.
Both shafts were taken out when replacing the broken one & seals etc replaced and not many miles done, so I hadn't got around to re- tightening them up AS RECOMMENDED after a few miles........ a warning to all. Now to find out if any serious damage done and if this was the problem.I was only doing walking pace from a gentle start...... David
19-03-2021, 06:27 PM
Your hubs should be tight on the tapers and should not require a re tighten. Use locktite they will stay in place
19-03-2021, 07:01 PM
Dear David
If you want reliability with your hub half shaft joints - they need to fit the tapers correctly. Lapping the hubs on may be necessary. You also need to make sure that the keys fit correctly and are not standing proud, therefore not touching the hub. Then tight means tight on the nuts you should not have to retighten - personally I use a metre long crash bar and give it plenty. We have all had trouble with this and have adopted different ways of making sure as I am sure you will. Good luck with it.
20-03-2021, 06:53 PM
Success.....a sheared key! The taper is fine, problem was without doubt an insufficiently tightened nut. Do I have to sacrifice a brake drum or fork out for a "hub nut tool"....how do you stop rotation if you are leaning on a gert long bar?
20-03-2021, 06:59 PM
Where in the world are you David? I’m sure someone local can lend you a hub nut tool.
20-03-2021, 11:13 PM
I simply forked out for a hub nut tool. Only used it twice so far, but it saved an awful lot of hassle, so well worth the money.
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